A tour through the Pyrenees . APTER IV. CA UTERETS. L Cauterets is a town at the bottom of a valley,melancholy enough, paved, and provided with anoctroi. Innkeepers, guides, the whole of a fam-ished population besieges us ; but we have consid-erable force of mind, and after a spirited resistancewe obtain the xvA\X. of looking about and choos- mo-. Fifty paces further on, we are fastened upon byservants, children, donkey-hirers and boys, whoaccidentally stroll about us. They offer us cards,they praise up to us the site, the cuisine ; they ac-company us, cap in hand, to the very edge of thevilla
A tour through the Pyrenees . APTER IV. CA UTERETS. L Cauterets is a town at the bottom of a valley,melancholy enough, paved, and provided with anoctroi. Innkeepers, guides, the whole of a fam-ished population besieges us ; but we have consid-erable force of mind, and after a spirited resistancewe obtain the xvA\X. of looking about and choos- mo-. Fifty paces further on, we are fastened upon byservants, children, donkey-hirers and boys, whoaccidentally stroll about us. They offer us cards,they praise up to us the site, the cuisine ; they ac-company us, cap in hand, to the very edge of thevillage ; at the same time they elbow away all com-petitors: The stranger is mine, Ill baste you if Chap. IV. CA UTERETS. 291 you come near him. Each hotel has its runnerson the watch; they hunt the isard in winter, thetraveller in summer. The town has several springs : that of the Kingcured Abarca, king of Aragon ; that of Caesar re-stored health, as they say, to the great is needed in history as well as in I HE PATIENTS OF THE OLDRN -IlME. For example, in the time of Francis I. the FauxBonnes cured wounds; they were called Eauxdarquebusades; the soldiers wounded at Pavia 2 92 THE VALLEY OF LUZ. Book III. were sent to them. Now they cure diseases of thethroat and chest. A hundred years hence theywill perhaps heal something else ; with every cen-tury medicine makes an advance. Formerly, said Sgnarelle, the liver was atthe right and the heart at the left; we have re-formed all that. A celebrated physician one day said to his pu-pils: Employ this remedy at once, while it stillcures. Medicines, like hats, have their fashions. Yet what can be said against this remedy ?The climate is warm, the gorge sheltered, the airpure, the gayety of the sun is cheering. A changeof habits leads to a change of thoughts ; melan-choly ideas take flight. The water is not badto drink; you have had a beautiful journey; themoral cures the physical nature ; if not, you havehad hope for
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