. The fruit garden. Fruit-culture; Fruit trees. PLANTING FRUIT TREES 257 tree is secured by cutting back the inner branches to four buds, and regulating the shoots so that a proper balance is kept upon all sides of the tree. Cherries require this treatment for three years, other fruit trees for longer ; but when the heads are well developed only weakly shoots or those which cross each other, and useless spray, will require to be cut out. Trees carefully pruned give the finest fruits, so that year by year a little attention pays. With garden trees, as pyramids, espaliers, bushes, it is only nec
. The fruit garden. Fruit-culture; Fruit trees. PLANTING FRUIT TREES 257 tree is secured by cutting back the inner branches to four buds, and regulating the shoots so that a proper balance is kept upon all sides of the tree. Cherries require this treatment for three years, other fruit trees for longer ; but when the heads are well developed only weakly shoots or those which cross each other, and useless spray, will require to be cut out. Trees carefully pruned give the finest fruits, so that year by year a little attention pays. With garden trees, as pyramids, espaliers, bushes, it is only necessary annually to cut back the side-shoots to four buds, and to leave 6 inches of new growth upon the leading shoots. Of course, close prun- ing is necessary for a few years until the desired form is secured. The side shoots of cordon pear trees must not be cut in too closely, four to six buds should be left; some of them may go blind. Shoots of cordon apples may be cut in closer ; those near the top of the tree ought to be shortened more than those at the base, otherwise the basal fruit-spurs may suffer. Bush Fruit Trees.—Cut back the shoots of red and white currants and gooseberries to within six buds of their bases after planting, afterwards 6 inches of new growth may annually be left until the bushes are formed. Black currants require different treatment, see the chapter dealing with this fruit. Subsequent Treatment.—A com- mon error in fruit culture is giving an excess of manure to young trees. Moderate, well-ripened shoots are best; where growth is forced as it were, sappy wood is produced, and young trees, especially of the cherry and plum, are liable to be injured by frost. Where new growths more than 12 inches long are made in one season, the trees do not require manuring. It is wise to assist only those trees bearing heavy crops ; liquid manure and soapy water will then help both trees and fruits. The pruning of wall fruit trees is described in the chapters deali
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