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. Bulletin of the Beach Erosion Board. Shore protection; Beach erosion. ML. 1 1 ^ â '^ r^ r\ â 100 "V â h-tv â B ^ " â "S T 1â 0 n 1 1 Lâ1 â_ \â1 â\ â "'â if/i -4-:^= Iroug T ^^ ^ <- ' â ^ Sift.) /.r - J 0 U Li_j 'A H/L = , d/L^ H T C d 0 (fi.) (sec) (ft-/sec) UU 074 i:50 SURFACE TIME HISTORY. 0,146 1-218 0449 KSO HORIZONTAL PARTICLE VELOCITY DISTRIBUTION i 0,, â J-c, 7rra" .-4 ^H-H . 'â : -A-lh '-â â -r- \ /â \ - - K--- ^ - 1 SdU ^"^ i 1 1 ^â T 4=Lâ ^"1" 1 â L Hâ d b tn c L U LU Isec) (ti/sec) (ft)
. Bulletin of the Beach Erosion Board. Shore protection; Beach erosion. ML. 1 1 ^ â '^ r^ r\ â 100 "V â h-tv â B ^ " â "S T 1â 0 n 1 1 Lâ1 â_ \â1 â\ â "'â if/i -4-:^= Iroug T ^^ ^ <- ' â ^ Sift.) /.r - J 0 U Li_j 'A H/L = , d/L^ H T C d 0 (fi.) (sec) (ft-/sec) UU 074 i:50 SURFACE TIME HISTORY. 0,146 1-218 0449 KSO HORIZONTAL PARTICLE VELOCITY DISTRIBUTION i 0,, â J-c, 7rra" .-4 ^H-H . 'â : -A-lh '-â â -r- \ /â \ - - K--- ^ - 1 SdU ^"^ i 1 1 ^â T 4=Lâ ^"1" 1 â L Hâ d b tn c L U LU Isec) (ti/sec) (ft) e 27 SURFACE TIME HISTORY 111.) Isecl Hl/eec) Wove 23 0106 Wove 27 0292 HORIZONTAL PARTICLE VELOCITY DISTRIBUTION PARTICLE ORBIT ABOUT MEAN PARTICLE POSITION WITH NO MASS TRANSPORT 1 =i -^ % . â 1 1 1 â^1 p^ -f^ \â4â â â -^ -^ â'^ it ~ 4- _ .3^ 'S^ U: 1 wqler levaf- â ^ «*«f«-v ,c-Wl w^ i 1 â cresl J . 1- â '-â â /t . ^-nâ -/f'â¢Â»"- ;â¢. ! â i â ; 1 I 1 ^--^ 'â â â :^ r ~7 \-'â 5»L-i â¢- â¢. K \End !'â¢- â 6eginnir,q | .- i i:SO 0-0262 ^IME HISTORY >- eievoTion of the pcrticlo above the bottt m this cose ths surfoce parlicle. I = still water depth,ffO ⢠'- ) . : wave length, (ff.) â = ) - wove period, ( I = horizontal particle velocity,(ft. per sec.) ) : ongiilor position of porticle in its orbit counterclockwise and where there is no troDsport, (degrees) . = horizontol positron of porticle in its meoi . (ft.) c = wove velocity of propGgotii:jn-( ) y = verticle position of porticle in its maon horizontal position. subscript B refers to breaking conditio Equotions l,4,5,Sond iO ore from Stokes' second opproximotion. Equotion 2 is from Stokes first opproximotion. Equafions 9 and II ore reduced forms of Stokes' seccnd opproximotion. riME HISTORIES, PARTfCLE VELOCITY DISTRIBU H
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