Through Arctic Lapland . tmo-spheric effect which one got used to, and I couldimagine in time one would feel almost lonely withoutit. To use a professional term, it was the necessary local colour. It never faltered in its vehemence,never varied in its ample quality. Come gale, comerain, it was always there, always ready to touch thenostril with its firm caress. It tinctured the windwith its full-flavoured strength, it came off to theyacht and got into the onion salad on the cabin table,it even climbed down into the engine-room andodorised that with the essence of departed cod. One likened the


Through Arctic Lapland . tmo-spheric effect which one got used to, and I couldimagine in time one would feel almost lonely withoutit. To use a professional term, it was the necessary local colour. It never faltered in its vehemence,never varied in its ample quality. Come gale, comerain, it was always there, always ready to touch thenostril with its firm caress. It tinctured the windwith its full-flavoured strength, it came off to theyacht and got into the onion salad on the cabin table,it even climbed down into the engine-room andodorised that with the essence of departed cod. One likened the smell of the place to the lamp ofthe Persian fire-worshippers elsewhere. Neither isever allowed to go out. Day by day one is replen-ished with oil, the other with new fishy debris, eachwith sacred care. For those Northmen know that ifonce the stink of fish died out, Vardd would cease toexist. The barren rocks of the island barely show somuch as a blade of grass. Nothing but fish standsbetween their town and I im\- CHAPTER II ACROSS THE VARANGER FJORD TO ELVENAES, WITHSOME OBSERVATIONS ON THE PISHING OP PINNERWHALE, AND A NARRATIVE OP TRAVELS WITH AJEW. One of the most looked-forward-to items of ouroriginal programme had been to see the Windwardpull her anchors out of European mud for the lasttime before she went to wrestle with the Arctic the ships carpenter ashore who had in chargethat new maintopsail yard was slow even in hissober moments ; and although every one in authorityraged at the delay, not even statements in Anglo-Saxon (or Scottish) as to his personal worthinesscould bustle him out of his dawdling gait. So in theend the Windwards saw us off, instead of our doingthe like by them. We took passage across the broad Varanger fjordto Jarfjord in a little coaster, and as she steamed outbetween the harbour walls and met the roll outside,all hands on the Windward, both forward and aft,yelled themselves hoarse, and we sent back our voices fl


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