Paris of to-day : an intimate account of its people, its home life, and its places of interest . RESTAURANT SALON l\ I III-. < \l-!?: DE PARIS THE RESTAURANTS. 115 disappeared from the table entirely. Duringthe Renaissance the principal delicacies wereheron and peacock, the latter served sur-rounded by its beautiful tail. What sort oftraditions do you mean? The traditions of which you are alwayshearing, I said, the old cuisine in distinctionfrom what are called the creations of themodern chefs of to-day, like pressed duck,for instance—the cancton de Rouen h la , I suppo


Paris of to-day : an intimate account of its people, its home life, and its places of interest . RESTAURANT SALON l\ I III-. < \l-!?: DE PARIS THE RESTAURANTS. 115 disappeared from the table entirely. Duringthe Renaissance the principal delicacies wereheron and peacock, the latter served sur-rounded by its beautiful tail. What sort oftraditions do you mean? The traditions of which you are alwayshearing, I said, the old cuisine in distinctionfrom what are called the creations of themodern chefs of to-day, like pressed duck,for instance—the cancton de Rouen h la , I suppose, is decidedly an invention ofour time. Pressed duck is very old, he said; thatis, I think it is about a century old. I knowthey ate it in Rouen fifty years ago. Theyhave all kinds of specialties in the old cuisineof Provence; they have dishes that are ex-quisite. This is as near as I ever come to hav-ing defined for me exactly what is meant bythe old French cuisine. I know that when Iam invited to dinners given at certain res-taurants I take a subtle pleasure in the repastwhich I am told comes from old tr


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