. From the log of the Velsa. near it. He said that thechannel had four feet at that hour. Thus welearned that local wisdom is not always omnis-cience. After a delay of two hours, we went up the Oreon the slack. The Ore is a very diiU river, but ithas the pleasing singularity of refusing to quit theocean. For mile after mile it runs exactly parallelwith the North Sea, separated from it only by anarrow strip of shingle. Under another name itall but rejoins the ocean at Aldeburgh, where atlength it curves inland. On its banks is Orford, atown more dead than any dead city of the ZuyderZee, and qui
. From the log of the Velsa. near it. He said that thechannel had four feet at that hour. Thus welearned that local wisdom is not always omnis-cience. After a delay of two hours, we went up the Oreon the slack. The Ore is a very diiU river, but ithas the pleasing singularity of refusing to quit theocean. For mile after mile it runs exactly parallelwith the North Sea, separated from it only by anarrow strip of shingle. Under another name itall but rejoins the ocean at Aldeburgh, where atlength it curves inland. On its banks is Orford, atown more dead than any dead city of the ZuyderZee, and quite as picturesque and as full of charac-ter. The deadness of Orford may be estimatedfrom the fact that it can support a kinematograph 291 FROM THE LOG OF THE VELSA only three nights a week. It has electric light, butno railway, and the chief attractions are the loftycastle, a fine church, an antique quay, and a largesupply of splendid lobsters. It knows not thetourist, and has the air of a natural self-preservingmuseum. 292. CHAPTER XIX THE INCOMPARABLE BLACKWATER TIME was when I agreed with the popular,and the guide-book, verdict that the Orwellis the finest estuary in these parts; but now that Iknow it better, I unhesitatingly give the palm tothe Blackwater. It is a nobler stream, a true armof the sea; its moods are more various, its bankswilder, and its atmospheric effects much defect of it is that it does not gracefully season for cruising on the Blackwater is Sep-tember, when the village regattas take place, andthe sunrises over leagues of marsh are made won-derful by strange mists. Last September the Velsa came early intoMersea Quarters for Mersea Regatta. TheQuarters is the name given to the lake-like creekthat is sheltered betwen the mainland andMersea Island—which is an island only dur-ing certain hours of the day. Crowds of small 295 FROM THE LOG OF THE VELSA yachts have their home in the Quarters, andthe regatta is democratic, a concourse or m
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