Hungary and the Hungarians . t ten in the evening, having partaken of anexcellent dinner on the train. They do feed you wellon these Hungarian trains. I have used the old term principality, because it seems to suit Transylvania sowell, though as a separate entity to-day it is but ageographical expression. There is perhaps anotherreason for my doing this, and it is because even to-dayTransylvanians invariably refer to the other parts ofthe country as Hungary. For instance, a distinguishedyoung politician in Kolozsvar told me one day that we get all our water-melons from Hungary. Thiselement, or


Hungary and the Hungarians . t ten in the evening, having partaken of anexcellent dinner on the train. They do feed you wellon these Hungarian trains. I have used the old term principality, because it seems to suit Transylvania sowell, though as a separate entity to-day it is but ageographical expression. There is perhaps anotherreason for my doing this, and it is because even to-dayTransylvanians invariably refer to the other parts ofthe country as Hungary. For instance, a distinguishedyoung politician in Kolozsvar told me one day that we get all our water-melons from Hungary. Thiselement, or sense of distinctness, is very real. Kolozsvaris the only town in which I felt any sincere measure ofintellectual feeling. The internal boundaries of Transyl-vania were continually shifting, and it is difficult to givethem. In the seventeenth century it took in the wholeof the eastern frontier of Hungary, reaching in thenorth almost as far as Eperjes, and including Kassa,Tokay, and all along from Vajda Hunyad to Brasso. i66. FARM loLiv KhrURMNG FROM MORNING MARKET,KOLOZSVAR, TRANSYLVANIA TRANSYLVANIA AND TRANSYLVANIANS 167 Sometimes even Debreczen was found within theTransylvanian area. Its history is unique. Thevery atmosphere of all the towns differ so from allother places one may visit even to-day. There arethose who recognise in it many analogies to has, for instance, three nationalities—the Magyars,the Saxons, and the Roumanians, or Wallachs: theselatter are said to have been the original inhabitantsof the land. This, however, is denied by associations abound everywhere. Indeed, itcan boast that one of the most magnificent monumentsever raised by human hands was erected to com-memorate its full enrolment on the page of column of Trajan at Rome, with its wondrousspiral band of bas-reliefs, tells to this day of thedesperate struggle which broke the power of theancient Dacians, and led to the stately city of UlpaTrajana rising on


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