. Two centuries of costume in America, MDCXX-MDCCCXX . en used in the term a pane of glass. The word pinches refers to an elaborate pleat-ing which was worn for years ; it lingered in Americatill 1750, and we haverevived it in what weterm accordion pleat-ing. The seventeenth-century pinching wasusually applied to lawnor some washable stuff;and there must havebeen a pinching, a gof-fering machine by whichthe pinching was doneto the washed garmentby means of a heatediron. Pinched sleeves,pinched partlets,pinched shirts, pinchedwimples, pinched ruffs,are often referred to, all washable garments.
. Two centuries of costume in America, MDCXX-MDCCCXX . en used in the term a pane of glass. The word pinches refers to an elaborate pleat-ing which was worn for years ; it lingered in Americatill 1750, and we haverevived it in what weterm accordion pleat-ing. The seventeenth-century pinching wasusually applied to lawnor some washable stuff;and there must havebeen a pinching, a gof-fering machine by whichthe pinching was doneto the washed garmentby means of a heatediron. Pinched sleeves,pinched partlets,pinched shirts, pinchedwimples, pinched ruffs,are often referred to, all washable garments. The goodwife of Bath wore a wimple which was y-pinchedfull seemly. Henry VIII wore a pinched habit-shirt of finest lawn, and his fine, healthy skin glowedpink through the folds of the lawn after his heartyexercise at tennis and all kinds of athletic sports, forwhich he had thrown off his doublet. We are taughtto deem him a spot of grease and blood on Eng-lands page. There was more muscle than fat inhim ; he could not be restrained from constant, vio-. John Lilburne. 174 Two Centuries of Costume lent, dangerous exercise; this was one of the causesof the admiration of his subjects. The pinched partlet made a fine undergarment forthe slashed doublet. So full, so close, were these pinchings, that oneauthor complained that men wearing them could notdraw their bowstrings well. It was said that the pinched partlet and puffed sleeves of a courtierwould easily make a lad a doublet and cloak. In my chapter on Childrens Dress I tell of thepinched shirt worn by Governor Bradford when aninfant, and give an illustration of it. Aglets or tags were a pretty fashion revived forwomens wear three years ago. Under Stuart reign,these aglets were of gold or silver, and set withprecious stones such as pear-shaped pearls. Forordinary wear they were of metal, silk, or secured from untwisting or ravelling the pointswhich were worn for over a century ; these were tiesor laces of ribbon, or w
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