. Straight shoulder rules, systems and methods of the present day . back and forepart, then fold it under until it meets half and half the width of strap,forming the same effect as the bellows pocket. Then place pattern of back at D at center of fold,and forepart pattern at C() the same, haviuL;- in mind the form as to standing. The back strapshould extend down the back straight, and the forepart should to as near the center offorepart as possible, while it can be curved to conform to the shape. The material in this form ofproducing being in one piece, it can be adjusted at any time to
. Straight shoulder rules, systems and methods of the present day . back and forepart, then fold it under until it meets half and half the width of strap,forming the same effect as the bellows pocket. Then place pattern of back at D at center of fold,and forepart pattern at C() the same, haviuL;- in mind the form as to standing. The back strapshould extend down the back straight, and the forepart should to as near the center offorepart as possible, while it can be curved to conform to the shape. The material in this form ofproducing being in one piece, it can be adjusted at any time to requirements. The strap can becut separately and sewed on, but it wastes more in seams and has not that loose easy effect ofthe bellows fold to open out where waist strap-band does not confine it, ant! is not as good tailoreda garment. This is a straight front garment, and can be made to button up to AO with a turn-down collar, or a short roll with notch collar, though the button to AO is most effective. DOOLITTLES STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 87. Tourist Coat. 88 DOOLITTLES STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS PADDOCK COAT. THLS orarment can be produced either from the body frock pattern or the under sack. If fora sack front and side body cut off with frock back, it is best produced by the cutaway orany body frock. If with sack back and front, it is better to form it from a sack first gives the peaked laiicl, the second the tly front. In either case a whole back can beappHed. the frock it will give a better effect to draft each side separate, as opposite to eachother, than to fold paper and use crease fold as center; in this way it is more apt to drop or takefrom K at top of back shoulder and not give as good shaping. DOOLITTLES STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 89
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