Travels in the Atlas and Southern Morocco, a narrative of exploration . had we crossed a single stream or rivulet,with the exception of the Azamor river. Neither hadwe ascended a hill, nor even seen one, nor had we foundoccasion to halt and admire the slightest approach toa picturesque landscape. We had, in fact, seen nothingbut rounded low ridges, or even more monotonousflat expauses, varied only by waving corn, dark-greenbush tracts, or gorgeous flower reaches. Now, however, we descended a narrow defile, alongwhich trickled a small muddy streamlet shaded byolive and fig. Farther down, the na
Travels in the Atlas and Southern Morocco, a narrative of exploration . had we crossed a single stream or rivulet,with the exception of the Azamor river. Neither hadwe ascended a hill, nor even seen one, nor had we foundoccasion to halt and admire the slightest approach toa picturesque landscape. We had, in fact, seen nothingbut rounded low ridges, or even more monotonousflat expauses, varied only by waving corn, dark-greenbush tracts, or gorgeous flower reaches. Now, however, we descended a narrow defile, alongwhich trickled a small muddy streamlet shaded byolive and fig. Farther down, the narrow defile openedsomewhat, and enclosed a series of pleasant little gar-dens shaded by pomegranate and orange, fig and olive,date and banana, and beautified by an abundance ofgeraniums and lilies, and numerous other familiar andunfamiliar flowers. At length we reached the seaward mouth of theglen, and Saffi, all white and gleaming, lay between usand the turbulent sea. On our right were now the numerous kuhas of thesaints of Saffi, and on our left the huge barrack or. AZAMOR TO MOGADOR. 59 rather prison-like palace of the Sultans dominated thetown. A fine Portuguese gateway gave entrance throughthe well-built crenelated walls which girdle the com-pact mass of houses. Nearer approach, as usual, belied the promise of thedistance, and we passed along repulsive lanes, hemmedin by mean buildings, and finally reached the residenceof Mr. George Hunot, British Vice-Consul. Here we got a hearty welcome, and were soon madeaware that we had not only discovered a generous host,but an unrivalled adviser on all matters pertaining toMoorish travel. I do not know if there is anotherEuropean in Morocco who in any way approaches in his knowledo^e of the Moor and his lanofuagre,as well as of many of the southern provinces of theEmpire. As our horses and mules were showing signs offatiofue, we remained at Saffi on the followino- dav,not by any means unprofitably, and certainly not un-plea
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