. Karakoram and western Himalaya 1909, an account of the expedition of H. R. H. Prince Luigi Amadeo of Savoy, duke of the Abruzzi. nst a cold blue sky, which toward the zenithbecame itself pale almost to whiteness. CHAPTER X\. THE UPPER GODWIN AUSTEN GLACIER AND THE EASTERN SLOPES OF K-. Length and Situation of the Godwin Austen Glacier.— The Gorge between K and BroadPeak.—-The First Step of the Glacier. — Survey and Map of the Eckenstein-Pfannl-Guillarmod Expedition. — The Glacier Basin of Broad Peak. — The Speed of the GodwinAusten. — Avalanches from Broad Peak. — The Eastern Wall and North-
. Karakoram and western Himalaya 1909, an account of the expedition of H. R. H. Prince Luigi Amadeo of Savoy, duke of the Abruzzi. nst a cold blue sky, which toward the zenithbecame itself pale almost to whiteness. CHAPTER X\. THE UPPER GODWIN AUSTEN GLACIER AND THE EASTERN SLOPES OF K-. Length and Situation of the Godwin Austen Glacier.— The Gorge between K and BroadPeak.—-The First Step of the Glacier. — Survey and Map of the Eckenstein-Pfannl-Guillarmod Expedition. — The Glacier Basin of Broad Peak. — The Speed of the GodwinAusten. — Avalanches from Broad Peak. — The Eastern Wall and North-Eastem Spur ofK. — Staircase Peak.—Two Ascents to Sella Pass.—The Region East of the Broad-Gasherbrum Range. — Teram Kangri. — The Ascent to Windy (Jap. — The Attempt ofGuillarmod and Wessely on K.—The Basin of Staircase Peak.— Border Saddle. —K= from Windy Gap. — The Region East of the Col. — The Duke at Windy Gap. — FirstAttempt on Staircase Peak. — Snowfalls and Avalanches. — Second Attempt. — K fromthe Ridge of Staircase Peak. — Observations on the Region east of the We had still to explorethe upper basin of theGodwin Austen and theeastern slopes of K^—awork which occupied thenext fifteen days of thecampaign. According to thesurvey made by theexpedition, the GodwinAusten from the Con-cordia to Windy Gap istwelve and a half mileslong, and divided intotwo nearly equal parts,the lower of which Ihave already runs north, loadedwith moraine, and risesabout 820 feet in the 254 Chapter XV. six niiles between the Concordia and the foot of K-. From this pointon the glacier runs north-east, in a deep gorge between K^ and BroadPeak. It has no longer any surface moraine, and it gains some3,950 feet of altitude in six and a half miles, chiefly by means of twogreat rises or steps, between which is a relatively level space. The Duke foresaw that the new enterprise would be of someduration, and arranged to set up a camp
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