The manual training school, comprising a full statement of its aims, methods, and results, with figured drawings of shop exercises in woods and metals . 122 THE SECOND, OR MIDDLE YEAR. [chap. m. of the form shown in Fig. 120. It is possible by sufficient careand skill to produce it from a solid block, but it would involveworking out the channel, keeping the sides and bottom true andat the proper angles. Moreover, the finish with sand-paperbefore and after varnishing would be difficult. On the otherhand, if a bevel be set at the angle suitable for the draft, apiece for the body and single piece
The manual training school, comprising a full statement of its aims, methods, and results, with figured drawings of shop exercises in woods and metals . 122 THE SECOND, OR MIDDLE YEAR. [chap. m. of the form shown in Fig. 120. It is possible by sufficient careand skill to produce it from a solid block, but it would involveworking out the channel, keeping the sides and bottom true andat the proper angles. Moreover, the finish with sand-paperbefore and after varnishing would be difficult. On the otherhand, if a bevel be set at the angle suitable for the draft, apiece for the body and single pieces for the two ribs may beprepared with a plane. These pieces can be easily sand-paperedand varnished in detail with no internal corners to reach, andwhen ready they may be put together with a few nails. Witha given degiee of skill a much more accurate pattern will be. Fig. 120. Building up Patterns. the result. The point of finishing parts in detail before nailingup into shapes hard to secure in any other way is well worthbearing in mind. Patterns are necessarily exposed to dampness and should bewell protected against it. One of the best means is thoroughvarnishing with shellac varnish. After the pattern is smoothlyfinished, the first application of varnish raises the little filaments-that have been rubbed down. When dry these filaments arebrittle and the surface is rough : light sand-papering will breakoff the fibers and prepare the surface for a second coat ofvarnish. Four or five such coats are usually sufficient. It iscustomary to use black varnish on the main parts of finepatterns, and light varnish on the core-prints, which gives anexcellent appearance. The best light varnish is made by dis- Chap, in.] DIVIDING PATTEBNS. 123 solving gum shellac (orange or white) in grain alcohol, nospecial proportions being required. For black varnish, stirla
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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookdecade1900, booksubjectmanualt, bookyear1906
