Greenhouses, their construction and equipment . s of thesurface. A form is then built of lumber tothe height required and filled with the concrete has set, the form istaken away and the sides of the wall plast-ered with a cement mortar. In wet, springysoil it is often desirable to lay a row of draintile along the outside of the wall and nearlyto the bottom of the trench, to carry off thewater. Concrete walls are usually much moresatisfactory than either brick or stone. Theyshould be from 8 to 12 inches thick, accordingto their height and the side strain to whichthey are subjected
Greenhouses, their construction and equipment . s of thesurface. A form is then built of lumber tothe height required and filled with the concrete has set, the form istaken away and the sides of the wall plast-ered with a cement mortar. In wet, springysoil it is often desirable to lay a row of draintile along the outside of the wall and nearlyto the bottom of the trench, to carry off thewater. Concrete walls are usually much moresatisfactory than either brick or stone. Theyshould be from 8 to 12 inches thick, accordingto their height and the side strain to whichthey are subjected. Usually 8 inches is suf-ficient. In wet soils when the boiler is placedbelow the surface, it may be necessary towaterproof the walls. For data on concreteconstruction see Chapter XV. FRAMEWORK 85 Wood Frame Houses.—These are quitesatisfactory when a cheap house is wantedfor a comparatively few years. The sideposts, which may be of cedar or cypress, and3x4 inches in size, are placed 8 feet apartin holes 3 feet deep, and extend to the height. Fig. 49.—Plan for an all-»wood frame greenhouse decided upon for the side walls. They arethen placed in alignment and the holespoured full of thin concrete which soon hard-ens. The end posts are similarly placed, ex-cept that they extend only to the height ofthe boarded-up portion of the wall. 86 GREENHOUSES The next step is to place the center posts,which are usually 2 x 3 or 2 x 4 inches insize. The height of the ridge havingbeen determined (see Chapter III) theseposts are cut long enough to allow thelower end to be set in the ground about 2feet. They are then put in alignment andembedded in concrete the same as the sideposts. The ridge is then put in place on topof these center posts, and the eave plate ontop of the side posts, all joints being set inthick white lead paint. The sash bars on a house over 12 feet inwidth must be supported with purlins, but itis not necessary to support them with twoextra rows of posts. A perfectly sa
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