Embroidery and lace: their manufacture and history from the remotest antiquity to the present dayA handbook for amateurs, collectors and general readers . Bavaria had in her weddingtrousseau three dozen chemises of Holland, a quan-tity which seemed a great luxury to the French court.*Her spouse, Charles VI., wore silk shirts, however, oneof which is recorded as of whitesilk, striped with red silk andembroidered with letters of gold (1422). In the accounts of Margaretof France, dated 1545, we find four livres, twelve sous (abouttwelve shillings), for a trimmingto a chemise, ornamented withcrims
Embroidery and lace: their manufacture and history from the remotest antiquity to the present dayA handbook for amateurs, collectors and general readers . Bavaria had in her weddingtrousseau three dozen chemises of Holland, a quan-tity which seemed a great luxury to the French court.*Her spouse, Charles VI., wore silk shirts, however, oneof which is recorded as of whitesilk, striped with red silk andembroidered with letters of gold (1422). In the accounts of Margaretof France, dated 1545, we find four livres, twelve sous (abouttwelve shillings), for a trimmingto a chemise, ornamented withcrimson silk. White thread embroiderieswere hardly known ;linen garments,rarely of very finetexture, were quiteplain and withoutdecoration. But in the six-teenth century this gradually changed ; Fig. 58.—Border of red silk embroiderythe manufacture of on a linen cloth (in M. E. Bochers collection). linen was im-proved, and finer qualities played an important partin costume, whilst other varieties were] more largelyused for household purposes. Considerable numbers of towels or napkins, em-* Bezon, Diet. Gen. des Tissus Anc. et Mod., vol. viii., p. 128 I. EMBROIDERY. broidered with nice effect in red silk, etc., thus cameinto use (figs. 58, 59, and 60). A desire for more pronounced effects of decorationin the borders of such clothes also arose. Point coupe(cut work) was accordingly adopted, resulting in theproduction of patterns with cut-out and open details,many filled in with small devices of needlework, whichgave value to the more solid sections of the designabout them. Through the influence of a taste forlighter and less compactly woven grounds the limits ofneedlework were extended, and embroidery on linen, from which certainthreads had beenwithdrawn (a filstires), leaving suchas were sufficient tocarry an overcastingof stitches, came into Fig. 59.—Border of embroidery,with de-vices of double-headed eagle, crown, VOgue J and, later £?<££ MuSm). a ^ Cl°th (i still,
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Keywords: ., bookcentury1800, booksubjectembroi, booksubjectlaceandlacemaking
