American Blacksmithing, toolsmiths' and steelworkers' manual . Fig. 45. The broad-nose or finishing tool. When forging these brands into tools do not heat thesteel above a bright yellow, especially Mushet or San-dersons, but the steel must be heated evenly clearthrough the bar, and unless the tool is to be of a finenature do the forging under the steam hammer, as thesteel is too hard to forge with the hammer and forging should be done as quickly as possible, 96 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY while the heat is in the steel, and never attempt tobend or crook the steel when at a low heat, as it


American Blacksmithing, toolsmiths' and steelworkers' manual . Fig. 45. The broad-nose or finishing tool. When forging these brands into tools do not heat thesteel above a bright yellow, especially Mushet or San-dersons, but the steel must be heated evenly clearthrough the bar, and unless the tool is to be of a finenature do the forging under the steam hammer, as thesteel is too hard to forge with the hammer and forging should be done as quickly as possible, 96 THE TWENTIETH CENTURY while the heat is in the steel, and never attempt tobend or crook the steel when at a low heat, as it willbe apt to crack or break in two, so be careful to havethe steel at least at a deep red heat when it is to bebent. When any new brand comes in the shop be carefulto look at the directions on the bar, as some brands arehardened a little different from others. For example,the cutting edge of a tool made from Blue Chips ishardened by being heated to a white heat until it com-mences to melt, when small bubbles or blisters will. Fig. 46. The corrugating tool. form on the steel, then it is placed in a blast of coldair. To harden Mushet steel heat to a deep yellow andcool off in a blast of cold air, Sanderson ^s and Jessop^safter the same process. Novo steel is hardened by heat-ing it to a white heat, then cooled off in a blast of coldair or may be quenched in oil. When hardening steel with a blast of cold air, havethe pipe or nozzle (which conveys the air) as close tothe fire as possible, and when cooling off the tool, havesome arrangement to hold the point or cutting edge di-rectly in front of the blast. If this is not done the toolis apt to become turned to one side by the force of theblast. Also bear in mind if the steel is heated to a TOOLSMITH AND STEELWORKER 97 melting heat, as Blue Chip, be careful not to put theblast on too strong at first or it will blow the point offthe tool. Instead put on the blast light and gradualuntil the steel begins to cool a little. Then turn on


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