. Collected reprints / Atlantic Oceanographic and Meteorological Laboratories [and] Pacific Oceanographic Laboratories. Oceanography New York-New Jersey shelf 73. 39*I0'N 39"05' 74*00' 73*45' W Fig. 3. Simplified bathymetry and distribution of grain sizes on a portion of the central New Jersey shelf. Medium to fine sand occurs on ridge crests. Fine to very fine sand occurs on ridge flanks and in troughs. Locally, erosion in troughs has exposed a thin lag of coarse, shelly, pebbly sand over lagoonal clay. (Reprinted from Stubblefield et al. 1974 by permission of the Journal o
. Collected reprints / Atlantic Oceanographic and Meteorological Laboratories [and] Pacific Oceanographic Laboratories. Oceanography New York-New Jersey shelf 73. 39*I0'N 39"05' 74*00' 73*45' W Fig. 3. Simplified bathymetry and distribution of grain sizes on a portion of the central New Jersey shelf. Medium to fine sand occurs on ridge crests. Fine to very fine sand occurs on ridge flanks and in troughs. Locally, erosion in troughs has exposed a thin lag of coarse, shelly, pebbly sand over lagoonal clay. (Reprinted from Stubblefield et al. 1974 by permission of the Journal of Sedimentary Petrology.) ner shelf floor. The break in slope, which may be well defined or gently rounded, generally occurs at depths of 12 to 18 m, some few kilometers from the shoreline. Bruun (1962) pointed out that if this profile is in fact an equilibrium response of the seafloor to the coastal hydraulic cli- mate, then a rise in sea level must result in a landward and upward translation of the profile (Fig. 4A). Such a translation neces- sitates erosion of the shoreface. Much of the resulting debris will presumably be entrained in the littoral current and move downcoast, but during periods of onshore storm winds, the littoral drift may leak sea- ward, due to an offshore component of bot- tom flow, to be deposited beneath the rising seaward limb of the equilibrium profile on the adjacent inner shelf floor. Evidence for such seaward bottom trans- port is varied. Murray (1975) described periods of offshore bottom flow on the gulf coast, when winds are onshore and the wa- ter column is not stratified. Sonu and Van Beek (1971) noted that sand loss from North Carolina beaches correlates poorly with periods of high waves but correlates well with high waves generated by onshore northeast winds. On the Long Island inner shelf, we used sidescan sonar to map inner Fig. 2. Delaware Shelf Valley complex. Southward littoral drift along the New Jersey coast is injected into the reversi
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