. The near East; Dalmatia, Greece and Constantinople. tiny Trau on its tiny island really possess all this ? The lion doorway of the duomo at Trau is cer-tainly one of the finest things in Dalmatia. Theduomo dates from the thirteenth century, but hasbeen twice enlarged. It is not large now, but smalland high, dim, full of the smell of stale incense,blackened by age, almost strangely silent, almoststrangely secluded. In the choir is a deep well withan old well-head. There are many tombs in thepavement. The finely carved pulpit, with its littlelion, and the fifteenth-century choir-stalls are wel


. The near East; Dalmatia, Greece and Constantinople. tiny Trau on its tiny island really possess all this ? The lion doorway of the duomo at Trau is cer-tainly one of the finest things in Dalmatia. Theduomo dates from the thirteenth century, but hasbeen twice enlarged. It is not large now, but smalland high, dim, full of the smell of stale incense,blackened by age, almost strangely silent, almoststrangely secluded. In the choir is a deep well withan old well-head. There are many tombs in thepavement. The finely carved pulpit, with its littlelion, and the fifteenth-century choir-stalls are wellworth seeing, and the roof of the chapel of St. Gio-vanni Orsini, which contains a great marble tomb,has been made wonderful by age, like an old facemade wonderful by wrinkles. But Radovans door-way is certainly the marvel of Trau. In color it is arich, deep, dusty brown, and it is elaborately andsplendidly carved with two big lions, with Adam ona lion and with Eve on a lioness. The lioness isgrasping a lamb. There is a multiplicity of other de- 30. p< PICTURESQ^UE DALMATIA tail. The two big lions, which stick out on each sideof the round-arched doorway, as if about to stepforth into the alleys of Trau, have a fine air of life,though they both look tame. Their mouths are open,but almost smiling. When you leave the duomo, wander through theVenetian streets of this wonderful little island city,where Gothic windows and beautifully carved bal-conies look out to, lean forth to, the calm, blue wa-ters, edged by the red and the gold of the vines. Forthis place is unique and has an unique charm. Peacedwells here, and beauty has found a quiet abiding-place, where it lingers, and will linger, I hope, formany centuries yet, girdled by olive-groves, by vine-yards, by sun-kissed waters, guarded by the lions ofVenice. From Spalato I visited the white ruins of Salona,where the Emperor Diocletian was born, and nearwhich. In his palace at Spalato, he spent the lasteight years of his life, c


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