. The Bee-keepers' review. Bee culture. THE BEE-KEEPERS' REVIEW 393 DETAILS OF CONSTRUCTION IN BUILDING A HOUSE-APIARY. Now that the cellar is built, the next step is that of putting- on the sills. Lay them in mortar having the center of the sill come on the center of the cellar wall. The corners should be supported on gas pipe, having a foundation below the frost line; and inside of a larger piece of gas pipe coming a little above the ground, to which the dirt will freeze, and not effect the main one, inside, supporting the building. After putting in the joists I lay the floor next, as it can
. The Bee-keepers' review. Bee culture. THE BEE-KEEPERS' REVIEW 393 DETAILS OF CONSTRUCTION IN BUILDING A HOUSE-APIARY. Now that the cellar is built, the next step is that of putting- on the sills. Lay them in mortar having the center of the sill come on the center of the cellar wall. The corners should be supported on gas pipe, having a foundation below the frost line; and inside of a larger piece of gas pipe coming a little above the ground, to which the dirt will freeze, and not effect the main one, inside, supporting the building. After putting in the joists I lay the floor next, as it can be done much quicker, and then I nail the stud- ding right on the floor, putting them two feet apart from center to center. The studding is eight feet long, and planed on three sides so that every piece is alike; in fact, I plane all the scantling going into the building, and cut it all up in my shop at home with a draw saw, which makes ever3' joint square and every piece exactly alike. This greatly facilitates the putting up of a. frame, and makes it much nicer than can possibly be done by hand. Commence with a corner stud, and nail on the lap-girts as you go. One girt six inches from the floor, and the other 54 inches, until you get clear around. Of course, the studding must be kept plumb. Next, put on a 2 x 4, flatwise, for a plate. I nail the rafters together, in pairs (having a collar beam up six inches from the plate) be- fore putting them up. I like a shingle roof best, as it is a better protection from heat and cold. Don't put on an}'^ cornice, unless it is a mere skeleton, as it makes too good a mouse-nest, and occasionally harbors a squirrel. I would have an eave-trough extended as far as the cellar wall, to keep the water from it. The best siding is cove coping. This gives a smooth surface inside, with only one thickness, which is ex- actly what we need. The large win- dows in the gable ends are for venti- lating the house in hot weather. They are covered with wire
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Keywords: ., bookcentury1800, bookdecade1880, booksubjectbeecult, bookyear1888
