. Shore processes and shoreline development . ^ the progressive motion ofthe water particles in waves of this class, although he does notregard the formula as of practical importances^. In water of limited depth the water particles move roundand round in ellipses whose major axes are horizontal (Fig. 2),. Fig. 2. — Diagram showing the elliptical orbits of water particles in shallow-water waves, and the decrease in size of orbits with increasing depths.(After Krummel.) and at the bottom the ellipses are reduced to straight lines, thewater particles simply moving forward and backward^. Insomewha
. Shore processes and shoreline development . ^ the progressive motion ofthe water particles in waves of this class, although he does notregard the formula as of practical importances^. In water of limited depth the water particles move roundand round in ellipses whose major axes are horizontal (Fig. 2),. Fig. 2. — Diagram showing the elliptical orbits of water particles in shallow-water waves, and the decrease in size of orbits with increasing depths.(After Krummel.) and at the bottom the ellipses are reduced to straight lines, thewater particles simply moving forward and backward^. Insomewhat deeper water the particles near the surface will movein circles, those farther down in ellipses, and those on the bottomin straight lines. It is this back-and-forth movement on thebottom which Emy*^ was considering when he proposed hi&theory of ground waves or bottom waves (flots de fond),although he apparently included in addition certain phenomenaof waves of translation. This theory was assigned an undueimportance, and was greatly elaborated by Cialdi* and Cor-naglia^, and by others of the Italian school whose works discussthe flutto di fondo at much length. The latter author lays WAVE MOTION 11 much stress on the existence of a neutral Une where the land-ward and seaward components of t
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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookdecade1910, bookpublisheretcetc, bookyear191
