The passing of the Shereefian empire . thing in the atmosphere ofMorocco which I have not found in other countries,—something of freedom which is exhilarating tothe mind and to the body. I believe it is dueto the fact that you are so absolutely dependenton yourself. There are none of the so-called con-veniences and comforts of civilisation. There areno time-tables to be consulted, no arbitrary hoursof departure or arrival, no right of road or speedlimits to be observed. There are no bridges to therivers, no taverns or rest-houses at which you candine or stop for the night ; no laws to be obeye
The passing of the Shereefian empire . thing in the atmosphere ofMorocco which I have not found in other countries,—something of freedom which is exhilarating tothe mind and to the body. I believe it is dueto the fact that you are so absolutely dependenton yourself. There are none of the so-called con-veniences and comforts of civilisation. There areno time-tables to be consulted, no arbitrary hoursof departure or arrival, no right of road or speedlimits to be observed. There are no bridges to therivers, no taverns or rest-houses at which you candine or stop for the night ; no laws to be obeyed,and, if there were, no authorities to carry them intoeffect. There is no one to protect you in case ofdanger, and you are entirely dependent on your-self for your food, your lodging, and you can make your own laws to govern yourdaily life and the lives of those who accompanyyou. You are in supreme authority, for far in theinterior there is no questioning and no tribe through which you pass may regard. 1 THE MULE INTELLIGENT. 337 you with different feelings, and therefore youmust make friends with each separately, andchange your conduct to meet each individual is no race more peaceful and hospitable thanthe Arabs, once they know you. Every Moor youmeet on the road stops to salute you, and to askthe usual questions : Where are you from ?* Where are you going ? What is your coun-try ? What is your business ? Once theseare answered to his satisfaction, the stranger willbecome a friend and often accompany you for somedistance on the road. Then your servants, horses,and mules, with their many vagaries, are a con-stant source of study. Mules are amongst themost intelligent of animals, and they regulatetheir lives and their conduct in a manner that isalmost human. The mule never grumbles or pro-tests. If asked to do a journey of twenty miles itwill do it; if asked to go fifty, the mule will gothe fifty without a halt with superb determinati
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