. Shore processes and shoreline development . he debris sweptseaward from the marine bench by wave and possibly othercurrents has resulted in the formation of a shoreface terrace {d)whose top surface is delicately adjusted to continue the slightseaward inclination of the marine bench (c^). Still more important is the fact that the marine bench main-tains its seaward inclination, and is therefore lower at its outermargin than it was at that same locality in an earlier stage ofdevelopment. Thus the bench at c- has been lowered from theposition h^. There should be no difficulty in understanding t


. Shore processes and shoreline development . he debris sweptseaward from the marine bench by wave and possibly othercurrents has resulted in the formation of a shoreface terrace {d)whose top surface is delicately adjusted to continue the slightseaward inclination of the marine bench (c^). Still more important is the fact that the marine bench main-tains its seaward inclination, and is therefore lower at its outermargin than it was at that same locality in an earlier stage ofdevelopment. Thus the bench at c- has been lowered from theposition h^. There should be no difficulty in understanding thisimportant change, and its causes and consequences. Wavescontinue to traverse the marine bench, and as the depth of thebench is not yet great enough to place it beyond the reach ofwave action, it must suffer some erosion. The very fact thatwaves are weakened as they cross the bench towarrl the cliffproves that they have lost energy by expending it on the debris weathered from the face of the cliff and eroded from YOUNG STAGE 207. S >> & ^ tS 3 c3 > O o O u -2 >^ 3-^ 208 DEVELOPMENT OF THE SHORE PROFILE its base is dragged across the marine bench by wave currents,possibly aided by other currents, to be built into the shorefaceterrace or moved into deeper water; and the long-continuedaction of this marine sandpaper must grind the surface of thebench ever lower and lower. As the outer part of the bench hasbeen made longest and therefore exposed to continuous abrasionfor the longest time, it is worn lower than the parts further land-ward. Thus the bench keeps its seaward inclination. The effects of the seaward inclination of the marine bench areall-important. We have seen that waves tend to break when thedepth of the water equals the height of the wave; hence thedeeper the water the larger the waves which can traverse lowering of the marine bench therefore means thecontinuous admission of large waves farther and farther acrossits surface. Wer


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