Sights and sensations in France, Germany, and Switzerland; or, Experiences of an American journalist in Europe .. . then she would commence againdevouring her prayer-book. The mass was magnifi-ently executed, the high parts being sung by a femalevoice, which is an unusual occurrence in the churchesof Paris, where boys are employed for the treble As for the congregation, it was engaged most ofthe time in watching the countenances of the Emperorand Empress, and probably not a very large amountof religious edification or comfort was the result of 278 AN AMERICAN JOURNALIST IN EUROPE. th
Sights and sensations in France, Germany, and Switzerland; or, Experiences of an American journalist in Europe .. . then she would commence againdevouring her prayer-book. The mass was magnifi-ently executed, the high parts being sung by a femalevoice, which is an unusual occurrence in the churchesof Paris, where boys are employed for the treble As for the congregation, it was engaged most ofthe time in watching the countenances of the Emperorand Empress, and probably not a very large amountof religious edification or comfort was the result of 278 AN AMERICAN JOURNALIST IN EUROPE. the ceremony to any of us. At the termination ofthe mass, the Cardinal-archbishop read the prayer forthe Emperor, then, turning to the congregation, gavethe Pax Vobiscum, then bowed to the altar, then turn-ing again, bowed to the Emperor, who, with the Em-press, rose and went out, and the religious services ofthe day, which had occupied a little more than half anhour, were over. An hour afterward their Majestiesand the Prince Imperial were driving through theChamps Elysees, on their way to the Bois de CHAPTER XX. THE CEMETERY OF PERE LA CHAISE. A real City of the Dead.—The Jewish Inclosure.—Tomb of Ra-chel.—Defacing Monuments.—Abelard and Heloise.—The Graveof Marshal Ney.—The Artists Corner.—Vandael, the Flower-paint-er.—Singular Inscriptions.—The common Graves.—How the Deadare buried, and what it costs.—The Aristocracy and Democracy ofDeath. — Poor little Hunchback. — Respect for the Dead. —The Jour des Morts.—Mortuary Statistics of Paris. npHE Cemetery of P&re la Chaise is the principal-*- of the three great burial-grounds in which thosewho die in Paris repose—the city of the dead, locatedon the brow of a hill in fearful proximity to Paris,and overlooking it. City of the Dead! No othercemetery ever seemed so well to deserve this title, forits grounds are laid out in paved and curbed streetsand grass-plots and gravelled walks, and abov
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