. Collected reprints / Atlantic Oceanographic and Meteorological Laboratories [and] Pacific Oceanographic Laboratories. Oceanography OLDER S DEPOSITS BERM SWASH BAR DUNE FORESHORE BREAKPOINT BACKSHORE LONGSHORE BAR SHOREFACE TROUGH. SHOREFACE FIGURE 1. Morphologic elements oj the open coast and corresponding hydraulic provinces. the flatter inner shelf floor proper; the transition may be abrupt or very gentle. The upper shoreface, to a depth of perhaps 10 m, corresponds to the hydraulic zone of shoaling waves. The lower shoreface and inner shelf flow also experience the surge of
. Collected reprints / Atlantic Oceanographic and Meteorological Laboratories [and] Pacific Oceanographic Laboratories. Oceanography OLDER S DEPOSITS BERM SWASH BAR DUNE FORESHORE BREAKPOINT BACKSHORE LONGSHORE BAR SHOREFACE TROUGH. SHOREFACE FIGURE 1. Morphologic elements oj the open coast and corresponding hydraulic provinces. the flatter inner shelf floor proper; the transition may be abrupt or very gentle. The upper shoreface, to a depth of perhaps 10 m, corresponds to the hydraulic zone of shoaling waves. The lower shoreface and inner shelf flow also experience the surge of shoaling waves, but their slopes, textures, and bed forms are equally a response to unidirectional shelf flows. The Beach Profile Circulation in the surf zone and the morphologic response of the substrate are described in Chapter 13. This sec- tion deals with the net effect of such hydraulic process and substrate response on the onshore-offshore sediment budget. As a consequence of the enormous and nearly continu- ous expenditure of energy in the beach and surf zones, the topographic features of cohesionless sand found there may only exist as equilibrium or near-equilibrium re- sponses to the circulation patterns described in the pre- ceding chapter. The equilibrium is not a static one, however, as the characteristics of the wave regime that force the response are constantly changing, often more rapidly than the morphologic response can accommo- date. As a consequence, the nearshore beach and surf zone topography is endlessly destroyed and rebuilt ac- cording to a complex cycle, as the nearshore wave regime and circulation pattern alternate between fair- weather and storm configurations, and on a larger scale between the summer season of infrequent storms and the winter season of frequent storms (Davis and Fox, 1972); see Fig. 2. FAIRWEATHER PHASE! BEACH AND BAR BUILDING. The cycle is controlled by two mechanisms: the wave regime and the net circulation pattern driven by it. Du
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