A tour through the Pyrenees . on the head and crowned withferns, all to shield them from the gray flies. Thissuo-crests food for thought; for the skin of man isfar more tender than that of the ox, and the grayflies have sworn no peace with our kind. Beforethe oxen ordinarily marches a peasant, of a distrust-ful and cunning air, armed with a long switch, anddressed in white woollen vest and brown breeches;behind the wagon comes a little bare-footed boy,very wide awake and very ragged, whose old vel-vet cap falls like the head of a wrinkled mushroom,and who stops struck with admiration at the ma


A tour through the Pyrenees . on the head and crowned withferns, all to shield them from the gray flies. Thissuo-crests food for thought; for the skin of man isfar more tender than that of the ox, and the grayflies have sworn no peace with our kind. Beforethe oxen ordinarily marches a peasant, of a distrust-ful and cunning air, armed with a long switch, anddressed in white woollen vest and brown breeches;behind the wagon comes a little bare-footed boy,very wide awake and very ragged, whose old vel-vet cap falls like the head of a wrinkled mushroom,and who stops struck with admiration at the mag-nificent aspect of the diligence. Those are the true countrymen of Henry to the pretty ladies in gauzy hats, whose swell-ing and rustling robes graze the horns of themotionless oxen as they pass, you must not look atthem ; they would carry your imagination back tothe Boulevard de Gand, and you would have gonetwo hundred leagues only to remain in the sameplace. I am here on purpose to visit the sixteenth Chap. II. century ; one makes a journey for the sake of chang-ing, not place, but ideas. Point out to a Parisianthe gate by which Henry IV. entered Paris; he willhave great difficulty in calling up thearmor, the halberts and the whole vic-torious and tumultuous procession thatIEtoile describes: it is because hepassed by there to-day on such andsuch business, that yesterday he metthere a friend, while last year he lookedupon this gate in the midst of a publicfestival. All these thoughts hurryl^v^M^j^ along with the force of habit, repel-tl ^m ^^^^8 ^^*^ stifling the historic spectaclewhich was oroino- to lift itself into fulllio^ht and unroll itself before the down the same man in Pau : therehe knows neither hotels, nor people,nor shops ; his imagination, out of itselement, may run at random ; no knovv^nobject will trip him up and make himfall into the cares of interest, the passion of to-day;he enters into the past as a matter of course, andwalks there as


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