The South Wales coast from Chepstow to Aberystwyth . s a misty morning, not very goodfor such an expedition, and the sight of a house—a corn-millers—which had caught fire the nightbefore, whose walls still smouldered and senta thin wisp or two of smoke to join the mist,seemed to threaten a bad day. But reaching thefoot of the Wyndcliff, after skirting some woodsfull of wild-garlic mixed with lily-of-the-valley,I decided to climb it from the ridiculous touristsor stage-carpenters moss-cottage where you paysixpence for the privilege. About three-quarters of the way up the mistgrew lighter, as if
The South Wales coast from Chepstow to Aberystwyth . s a misty morning, not very goodfor such an expedition, and the sight of a house—a corn-millers—which had caught fire the nightbefore, whose walls still smouldered and senta thin wisp or two of smoke to join the mist,seemed to threaten a bad day. But reaching thefoot of the Wyndcliff, after skirting some woodsfull of wild-garlic mixed with lily-of-the-valley,I decided to climb it from the ridiculous touristsor stage-carpenters moss-cottage where you paysixpence for the privilege. About three-quarters of the way up the mistgrew lighter, as if some one were puffing it awayfrom the trees. Another twenty feet up, and thepalest blue sky imaginable began to appear over-head, with a sun pale-white as a pewter , having reached the summit and gained apoint where nothing came in the way, I saw themist rolling away below like thin muslin, andleaving the lower valley clear. Then, after apause, came the miracle. A sort of second skyappeared, uncertainly repeating the first, and in. a. 8 wcapa< H y. CHEPSTOW AND THE WYE 23 the perspective an aerial promontory and beyondthat a sailing-vessel were to be discovered ap-parently high in air. The lower sky was theSea of Severn, and the vision was that of themeeting of the waters in the April sun. Therelay the Severn (whose great tide often flowsgrey or milk-blue, to ebb tinged with rich mud,yellow or brown) like a creature of the sky; andthe Wye was tricked out with the same lightbright colours. CHAPTER II THE OLD SEVERN CROSSING—PORTSKEWETT —THE SEVERN TUNNEL—WENTWOOD Travelling west from Chepstow, you have achoice of routes. The ten-mile level between themouth of the Wye and the mouth of the Usk isnot what most men find exciting and they usuallycontrive to pass it by at high railway speed. Butit edges a countryside that has at every stagesome ruined chapel, some fine old house or other,some castle like Caldecot on the flat, or Llanvairon a hill, that gives
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