. Nineveh and Babylon : a narrative of a second expedition to Assyria during the years 1849, 1850, & 1851. on awoke the chief. He wel-comed me with friendly warmth ; and, although forbidden toeat himself, he did not leave his guests uncared for. Thebreakfast brought to us from his harem comprised a varietyof sweetmeats and savoury dishes, which did credit to theskill of the Kurdish ladies. There are about fifty Catholic Chaldaean families, recentconverts from Nestorianism, in Heren. They have a church,and had no cause to complain of their Kurdish masters,especially during the government of the


. Nineveh and Babylon : a narrative of a second expedition to Assyria during the years 1849, 1850, & 1851. on awoke the chief. He wel-comed me with friendly warmth ; and, although forbidden toeat himself, he did not leave his guests uncared for. Thebreakfast brought to us from his harem comprised a varietyof sweetmeats and savoury dishes, which did credit to theskill of the Kurdish ladies. There are about fifty Catholic Chaldaean families, recentconverts from Nestorianism, in Heren. They have a church,and had no cause to complain of their Kurdish masters,especially during the government of the present chief. Namet Agha placed me under the protection of his cousin,Mullah Agha, who was ordered to escort me to the borders 190 NINEVEH AND BABYLON. [Chap. of the pashalic of Hakkiari, now occupied by the Turkishtroops. Our guide was a tall, sinewy mountaineer, dressedin the many-coloured loose garments, and huge red and blackturban folded round the high conical felt cap, which give apeculiar and ungainly appearance to the inhabitants of cen-tral Kurdistan. He was accompanied by three attendants,. A Kurd. and all were on foot, the precipitous and rocky pathways ofthe mountains being scavcely practicable for horses, whichare rarely kept but by the chiefs. They carried their longrifles across their shoulders, and enormous daggers in theirgirdles. We left Heren early on the morning of the 19th, and soonreaching the Zab rode for two hours along its banks, to aspot where a small raft had been made ready for us to crossthe stream. Many villages were scattered through the valleyon both sides of the river, and the soil is not ill passed the night in Rizan, near the ferry. We now entered the tract which has probably been fol-lowed for ages by llie mountain clans in their periodical VIII.] KURDISH DISTRICTS. 191 migrations. Besides the sedentary population of these dis-tricts, there are certain nomade Kurdish tribes called Kochers,who subsist entirely by their flocks.


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