Romantic Corsica, wanderings in Napoleon's isle; . hotels inthe town, and that in which I stayed was sufficientlymodern to make a stay of a few days comfortablypossible, as its position in the newer part of the townis excellent. It is certainly a pity to have to hurryaway from Cort6, with its old-world associations andthe magnificent scenery round about it. A favourite excursion is the ascent of Monte Rotondoby way of the valley of the Restonica, but I found thetwo valleys too charming to lure me into a new diversion—that of mountaineering. The Tavignanos gorge withits chestnut woods, its seri
Romantic Corsica, wanderings in Napoleon's isle; . hotels inthe town, and that in which I stayed was sufficientlymodern to make a stay of a few days comfortablypossible, as its position in the newer part of the townis excellent. It is certainly a pity to have to hurryaway from Cort6, with its old-world associations andthe magnificent scenery round about it. A favourite excursion is the ascent of Monte Rotondoby way of the valley of the Restonica, but I found thetwo valleys too charming to lure me into a new diversion—that of mountaineering. The Tavignanos gorge withits chestnut woods, its series of picturesque ravines andits changing views, the even more beautiful Restonicavalley, with Rotondo and Cinto looking into it, and itsmarvellous pine and oak forests, were quite enough forme without wandering to the snows of Monte Rotondo. And besides all this, I may add that Cort6 is famousfor a renowned flat—feveronata. As I was passingthrough Paris on my way to Corsica, a Parisian friendand gourmet told me to be sure, when in Cort6, to. THE CITADEL OF CORTE. To face p. t68.] IN OLD-WORLD CORT]^ 169 demand ?peveronata at dinner, and he supplied me withthe name of a restaurant where the chef made the dishso excellently that it was worth crossing Europe totaste. Peveronata means, literally, something peppery. Corsican Curry it might be called by the alliterative,though in its pristine peppery form it is somewhat ofa rarity. Dejeuner over one day, I visited the restaurant,and, after chatting to the proprietor for some time, Itold him I wanted peveronata—the real, original kindof peveronata—^for dinner that evening. He smiled andsaid he would tell the chef. But I wished to see Monsieurmyself and to discover the secret of something proprietor agreed, and so, some time before dinner, Istumbled down into the kitchen, and, introducing myselfas the gentleman who wanted something peppery, Ifound that the chef was just commencing on this famouspiece de resistance,
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