. Better fruit. Fruit-culture. Figure 6—Sixth Year and stocky growing tree under unfa- vorable conditions. However, after you have built the above described tree then it becomes necessary to render nature some assistance in maintaining its abundant supply of fruit. How to do this I will describe later in this article. Figures 4, 5 and 6 all show the devel- opment of the main structure of an apple tree. The pruning in all these is about the same. At each pruning I remove all superfluous limbs, as those growing inward or crosswise of tree, also those that are too close to other limbs, and which
. Better fruit. Fruit-culture. Figure 6—Sixth Year and stocky growing tree under unfa- vorable conditions. However, after you have built the above described tree then it becomes necessary to render nature some assistance in maintaining its abundant supply of fruit. How to do this I will describe later in this article. Figures 4, 5 and 6 all show the devel- opment of the main structure of an apple tree. The pruning in all these is about the same. At each pruning I remove all superfluous limbs, as those growing inward or crosswise of tree, also those that are too close to other limbs, and which will later become a part of the framework of the tree. One of the most common errors made by the inexeperienced orchardist in start- ing the head of an apple tree is to leave too many limbs for the lower frame- work of the tree. I prefer three limbs at base, and would prefer to have them distributed up and down the trunk as far apart as possible, but we cannot always obtain our preference, and have to be satisfied with what we can get. This is true in building an apple tree. Hence we may at times be forced to let four branches form the main frame- f. 4a. I igure9—Cross Section Showing Permanent Twine Support a. Main upright stalk; b, No. 12 galvanized wire; c, Half-ineh ring; d. Screw eye. work for the head, but in all cases hold your first uprights as far apart as possible, and keep the center open and free from all limb growth. Sometimes it becomes necessary to sacrifice a part of one of the already established uprights by cutting it back to a lateral limb, so as to more evenly balance the head of the tree, and also to make a wider opening in the center of the tree. In all of these illustrations you will observe that there has been many prunings compared with the age of the tree. This is explained by my pruning twice a year—in the middle of July and in winter or spring. I am confi- dent that two prunings each year is by far the best. With young trees it enables me to ob
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