The physical geography of New York state . This wind-formedcurrent tends to drift fragments in the same direction thatthe breaking waves push them, and is, therefore, a supportto wave action; but it must be considered of less impor-tance than wave action, because it is never powerful enoughto move any excepting the smaller fragments, while thebreaking wave will transport good-sized pebbles, and evenboulders, especially when imbedded in ice. Since on every coast there is one direction from whichthe average wind-formed waves strike with greater force and 1 Martin, Amer. Geol., XXVII, 1901, 331-3
The physical geography of New York state . This wind-formedcurrent tends to drift fragments in the same direction thatthe breaking waves push them, and is, therefore, a supportto wave action; but it must be considered of less impor-tance than wave action, because it is never powerful enoughto move any excepting the smaller fragments, while thebreaking wave will transport good-sized pebbles, and evenboulders, especially when imbedded in ice. Since on every coast there is one direction from whichthe average wind-formed waves strike with greater force and 1 Martin, Amer. Geol., XXVII, 1901, 331-334. TJlf N//O/V Li ins 315 persistence than from other directions, there is, <•! necessity,one direction in which tin- rock Fragment- are prevailinglymoved. For instance, on the shores • •! Erie amiOntario the winds from the western quadrant are more Fre-quent than those from the .-astern, and so tin- Frag-ments are moved farther toward the easl than toward On Long Island, on the other hand, the wot winds,. FIG. 172. The harbor of Avalon on < atalina Maud, lniuin^ :ibeautiful crcsci-nt ln-ndi ;it the IICMI! nf a li:iy into \\hifli fr:ii,iin-iit ~derived from the headlands arc driven. From the land, an- much less effective than the castwinds From the ocean, and the movement of partic].- istherefore From the east ( Fiir. 174). While we have considered only the movement- iv-ultiiii;from wind and wave, it must not l»e overlooked that on tin-sea shore these causes For the movement ! particles ;ircsometimes aided, sometimes checked, or seriously the action of the tide. In some pi,- ..... - tidal currents wey, .1.,nrn. Sol., Ml. 1846 - 1847, in. Clark, Canad. II. 1S!H)-!»1. I:, I 7. 11 arrin-t,,,.. Natun-. M,l\. Iarticles rcti-rriil tn mi jiaLTi- :!C1. 316 The Physical Geography of Neiv York State are so powerful that they furnish the dominant force in de-termining the coastal form. This is all the more liable tobe
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