. An inquiry concerning the invention of printing : in which the systems of Meerman, Heinecken, Santander, and Koning are reviewed : including also notices of the early use of wood-engraving in Europe, the block-books, etc. . ress, much resembling what has been calledthe tower head-dress, but differing from it in this, that instead ofinclining backwards, as that attire is commonly represented, and as itappears in a specimen in the upper part of Plate 29, it rises perpendi-cularly, as on another female figure, in the lower part of that plate,on the right. The fact appears to be, that this lofty


. An inquiry concerning the invention of printing : in which the systems of Meerman, Heinecken, Santander, and Koning are reviewed : including also notices of the early use of wood-engraving in Europe, the block-books, etc. . ress, much resembling what has been calledthe tower head-dress, but differing from it in this, that instead ofinclining backwards, as that attire is commonly represented, and as itappears in a specimen in the upper part of Plate 29, it rises perpendi-cularly, as on another female figure, in the lower part of that plate,on the right. The fact appears to be, that this lofty head-dress in the Speculum,was not intended for the legitimate tower head-dress, if I may so ex-press myself, but for an instance of that corruption in the horned head-dress, as it was styled, which, in some parts, perhaps, gave rise by de-grees to the tower head-dress ; for there seems reason to believe that,in some countries, Holland among others, both kinds were, at an earlyperiod, used coetaneously. (See PI. 27.) I know not exactly when to datethe first introduction of the fashion, which, from the extravagant pitchsome of the ladies carried it to, acquired the appellation of the horned ( *i u i i - ecutixru chap, xiv.] COSTUME OF THE SPECULUM. 345 head-dress; but it was in high vogue in this country early in thefifteenth century, when it was satirized by Lydgate, who, besidesspeaking of it in his verses, has given numerous specimens of it inthree of his illuminated manuscripts, some of which are copied inPlate 26. Two examples from the Biblia Pauperum, also, in one ofwhich the horns are raised to a great height, will be found in Plate 19*;and the Bedford Missal, (Plate 25) and numerous other manuscriptsof the first half of the century, abound in examples of the same head-dress, several of which will be found in the other plates accompanyingthese remarks. (See Plates 26—29.) At length, it appears, the twohorns were sometimes raised almost perpendicularly, and pushe


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Keywords: ., bookcentury1800, booksubjectprinting, booksubjectwoodengraving