. Romantic Germany. THE FRONT OF ST. ANDREWS, AS SEEN FROM THE WEBER-STRASSE BRUNSWICK hearty, wholesome, true kind of romance thatBrunswick exhales. And perhaps the democracy ofthe people, perhaps their humor, is what tipped thebeam, and made him love more than any other inGermany the town that is summed up by the viewof St. Catherines down the Hagenbriicke and bythe little old Backerklint where sits Tyll Eulen-spiegel, his monkeys heads rubbed bright by theloving hands of children. 183. GOSLAR IN THE HARZ ^ODULATION is as important an ele-ment of the art of traveling as it is ofI those cousi
. Romantic Germany. THE FRONT OF ST. ANDREWS, AS SEEN FROM THE WEBER-STRASSE BRUNSWICK hearty, wholesome, true kind of romance thatBrunswick exhales. And perhaps the democracy ofthe people, perhaps their humor, is what tipped thebeam, and made him love more than any other inGermany the town that is summed up by the viewof St. Catherines down the Hagenbriicke and bythe little old Backerklint where sits Tyll Eulen-spiegel, his monkeys heads rubbed bright by theloving hands of children. 183. GOSLAR IN THE HARZ ^ODULATION is as important an ele-ment of the art of traveling as it is ofI those cousin arts, painting and have had occasion to speak of get-ting the soul down from the shrill modernkey of Berlin to the deep, mellow tonality of old Dan-zig. But there is another sort of modulation, quite asimportant to the traveler and more difficult. It is asmooth transition from the simple, deliberate, care-less romanza of outdoor life to the exciting, exacting,exhausting scherzo movement of some rich historiccity where attention, memory, and sympathy areevery moment astrain. In recuperating from the exhausting demands ofa tour among the Northern cities the lover of beautyis often tempted to lose all sense of the flow of timein wandering with Rucksack and staff among theevergreen forests of the Harz Mountains, followingwhere the charming Okers music leads; idling inthe fabled region where sleeps Barbarossa, his red 184 GOSLAR IX THE HARZ beard grown clean through the table
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