. The fountain of youth. ices coming above the dip of the noon they were returning, and a fewstopped shyly to pass the day with Old ManCaptain. They started their coffee fires in thewhite shell bank, made me presents of turtlesand crabs, and manifested the same polite curi-osity about these two Yankees who studied mapsand had no particular business in these partsbeyond the absurd one of pleasure. Old Man Captain was off to the cypressswamp before I was up. He had a tote road built, along which he brought the black mossthat was later sold to the trade boats. Wedined on fried duck


. The fountain of youth. ices coming above the dip of the noon they were returning, and a fewstopped shyly to pass the day with Old ManCaptain. They started their coffee fires in thewhite shell bank, made me presents of turtlesand crabs, and manifested the same polite curi-osity about these two Yankees who studied mapsand had no particular business in these partsbeyond the absurd one of pleasure. Old Man Captain was off to the cypressswamp before I was up. He had a tote road built, along which he brought the black mossthat was later sold to the trade boats. Wedined on fried duck and turtle—with , turtle eggs are peculiar. As Old ManCaptain put it, * Theyre cooked when they 56 THE FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH aint. I didnt get much satisfaction out ofthat entree of turtle eggs. They are strangeas Hens sporting-goods catalogue idea ofcamping out. You cant cook the white of aturtle egg. You simply cant. Or maybe itis when it aint, as Old Man Captain eggs are as peculiar as duffle CHAPTER III THE BARATARIANS HEN came back from New Orleans thefourth day, disconsolate. Not a wordof our Old Town canoe. The shippingagents were as much mystified as we. Thereseemed nothing to do but stick around Old ManCaptains camp and await it. Meantime wewent hunting with Old Man Captain and hispups, Ponto and Flora. They were powefulfor turtles, and we secured five. Also turtleeggs—and we had had turtle eggs for three Man Captain would take his two dogs andput off through the swamp, Hen and I follow-ing with the gun and camera. The turtles were out on the ridges now to laytheir everlasting eggs, and presently we would 57 58 THE FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH hear Ponto and Flora barking away in a bit oflatanier palm scrub. Over rotten logs andshaking bog and under vines and gray mossplumes hanging from the cypress we struggledto come upon the dogs baying at a perturbedMobilian who wanted to hasten back to theswamp pools but declined with the dogs bawl-ing i


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