. History of lace . lishment for which Chantilly was celebratedowes its formation to Catherine de Rohan, Duchesse deLongueville, who sent for workwomen from Dieppe andHavre to her chateau of Etrepagny, where she retired atthe l^eginning of the seventeenth century, and establishedschools. The town of Chantilly, being the centre of a district oflace-makers, has given its name to the laces of the sur-rounding district, the trade being distributed over morethan a hundred villages, the principal of which are Saint-Maximien, Viarmes, Meric, Luzarches, and proximity to Paris, affording


. History of lace . lishment for which Chantilly was celebratedowes its formation to Catherine de Rohan, Duchesse deLongueville, who sent for workwomen from Dieppe andHavre to her chateau of Etrepagny, where she retired atthe l^eginning of the seventeenth century, and establishedschools. The town of Chantilly, being the centre of a district oflace-makers, has given its name to the laces of the sur-rounding district, the trade being distributed over morethan a hundred villages, the principal of which are Saint-Maximien, Viarmes, Meric, Luzarches, and proximity to Paris, affording a ready sale for its pro-ductions, caused the manufacture to prosper, and the narrowlaces w^hich they first made—gueuse and point de Paris—were soon replaced by guipures, white thread, and blacksilk lace.^ Some twenty years since there dwelt at Cliantilly ^ In Statistique de la France, 1800, at Fontenay, Puisienx, IMorges, andthe finest silk lace is said to be made Louvres-en-Parisis. The coarse and Plate French (or Dutch).—Borders of gold and silver thread and gimp lace. Eighteenthcentury. From the Treasury of St. Marys Church, Dantzig. Widths: IJ, 1^ and 4i in. Victoria and Albert IMuseum. To face page 212. CHANTILLY 213 an elderly lady, grand-daughter of an old proprietor, whohad in her possession one of the original pattern-booksof the fabric, with autograph letters of Marie Antoinette,the Princess de Lamballe, and other ladies of the court,giving their orders and expressing their opinion on thelaces produced. We find in the inventories of the lastcentury. coeffure de cour de dentelle de soye noire, mantelet garni de dentelles noires, a petite duchesseet une respectueuse, and other coeffes, all of dentellede soye noire. ^ White blonde appears more sparingly. The Duchesse deDuras has une paire de manchettes a trois rangs, deuxfichus et deux paires de sabots en blonde. The latterto wear, probably, with her robe en singe. Du Barrypurchases more largely.^^ See pag


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