From the Cape to Cairo; the first traverse of Africa from south to north . ourdto us. All my doubts as to the efficacy of the two bits of wood wereremoved when I discovered that they were just large enough to jam in theneck of the gourd, and that perched on the top of them was a pound anda half of butter. She was quite unabashed at the discovery, and evidentlymentally prayed that she would have better luck next time, which I haveno doubt she did, although not in that particular method. On our last march up the side of the lake, the cattle were, owing tothe steep nature of the road, left a long


From the Cape to Cairo; the first traverse of Africa from south to north . ourdto us. All my doubts as to the efficacy of the two bits of wood wereremoved when I discovered that they were just large enough to jam in theneck of the gourd, and that perched on the top of them was a pound anda half of butter. She was quite unabashed at the discovery, and evidentlymentally prayed that she would have better luck next time, which I haveno doubt she did, although not in that particular method. On our last march up the side of the lake, the cattle were, owing tothe steep nature of the road, left a long way behind; a band of nativesattacked them, but the cattle-guard, firing a few rounds, which did more 132 FROM THE CAPE TO CAIRO harm to themselves than to anybody else, repulsed the attack. Hearingabout it, I sent Makanjira, my gun-bearer, back, and with his help theybrought them all in without mishap. At the north-east corner of the lake there is an abrupt descent, and tothe north of the lake the country is flat, gently sloping to the base of thelarge active KIEUNGA, FEOM THE EAST. CHAPTER XII THE VOLCANOES A T the base of the descent there is a small bay, the resort ofmany fishermen, and beyond, two small isolated peaks, on theslope of one of which we camped. In the evening I climbedto the top of the one nearest to the lake to take observationsof all the promontories down the east coast. I think the view is the finest I have ever seen. Far to the southstretched the mighty expanse of water, dark promontories of every shapeand size jutted far into the lake; Kwijwi stood out in bold outline; andthe mighty wall of mountains on the west was dimly visible on the farhorizon. Below^ me stretched a great plain, the eastern j)art denselycovered with fields of millet and banana plantations, dotted with athousand huts. In all the fields hundreds of women were working, andsmall herds of cattle and goats were slowly wending their way to the the west, the plain was cover


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