The cities and cemeteries of Etruria . This mode oftransit is pleasant enough in a fine country and fair weather; andin Italy one sacrifices no dignity by such a monture. But whennebula malusque Jupiter rule the heavens, or the road is to betravelled with all speed—preserve me from the pack-saddle ! Icannot then exclaim—delirium est as in us !—be he as excellent asany of sacred or profane renown, from the days of Balaam tothose of Apuleius or Joan of Arc, or even as Dapple of immortalmemory. Asses, like men, are creatures of habit. Ognuno alsuo modo, eel il sommaro alV antico— Every one to his
The cities and cemeteries of Etruria . This mode oftransit is pleasant enough in a fine country and fair weather; andin Italy one sacrifices no dignity by such a monture. But whennebula malusque Jupiter rule the heavens, or the road is to betravelled with all speed—preserve me from the pack-saddle ! Icannot then exclaim—delirium est as in us !—be he as excellent asany of sacred or profane renown, from the days of Balaam tothose of Apuleius or Joan of Arc, or even as Dapple of immortalmemory. Asses, like men, are creatures of habit. Ognuno alsuo modo, eel il sommaro alV antico— Every one to his ownway, and the ass to the old way, says one proverb,—Trottodasino non dura troppo— An asss trot never lasts too long,s;tvs another—both of which I verified to my cost on thisjourney ; for though the rain burst from the sky in torrents,my beasts were not to be coaxed out of their wonted deliberatepace, consistent with the transport of charcoal, flour, and fire-wood, by any arguments ad lumbos I could offer; and I had no. CIVITA DI BAGNA3EA. Froui a Photograph. chap, xxxvii.] CIVITA 1)1 BAGNAEEA. 39 alternative but to follow their example, and take it coolly for therest of the journey. Between Monte Fiascone and Orvieto, but considerably to theright of the road, lies Bagnarea, on a cliff-bound hill, about eightmiles from the former town. Not a mile beyond is another stillloftier and isolated height, called Civita —a name which inItaly is a sure clue to the existence of habitation in ancient , not only from its position, shown in the woodcut at page 37,but from the numerous tombs in the rocks around, and the ex-cavations made in the neighbourhood, has been recognised as anEtruscan site, though its ancient name is quite Itsmodern appellation is a corruption of Balneum Regis, the nameit bore in the middle ages, probably so-called from the Romanbaths, whose remains are said still to exist in the valley to thenorth. Though the hill is so steep and
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