Archive image from page 148 of Directional irregular wave kinematics (1998) Directional irregular wave kinematics directionalirreg00bark Year: 1998 141 300 0 0 Figure : Water surface of short crested wave at t=0 is located at 10m below the MWL. The LFI method applied to third order (J = 3) again finds the kinematics for this wave almost exactly. In this case, the standard window width was also Is (tq = O-lTj), with four water surface nodes {M = 4) and six samples on the pressure records (/ = 6) distributed uniformly in time in each window, resulting in 26 equations in 24 unknowns. Figu
Archive image from page 148 of Directional irregular wave kinematics (1998) Directional irregular wave kinematics directionalirreg00bark Year: 1998 141 300 0 0 Figure : Water surface of short crested wave at t=0 is located at 10m below the MWL. The LFI method applied to third order (J = 3) again finds the kinematics for this wave almost exactly. In this case, the standard window width was also Is (tq = O-lTj), with four water surface nodes {M = 4) and six samples on the pressure records (/ = 6) distributed uniformly in time in each window, resulting in 26 equations in 24 unknowns. Figure is the same short crested wave, but computed with the single wave method of the LFI solution. In this case, the LFI solution still matches the measured pressure record very well, as is virtually always the case, as those measurements are part of the optimization. The predicted water surface is also fairly accurate, but with the predicted crest slightly underestimated. The vertical velocity is also fairly accurate. The LFI predictions for horizontal velocities, on the other hand, are very different from the Ohyama solution. The resulting discontinuities in the predictions for the horizontal velocities make it clear that something important is missing from the solution. The single wave method is simply not able to capture a short crested sea made up of two distinct directional components.
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