. From the log of the Velsa. aved andscrubbed every separate stone on the quay. If ca-nals were foul, streets were as clean as table-tops—cleaner. The other cities of the Zuyder Zee were not moredead than Hoorn, though Enkhuizen, our nextport, was more tranquil, possibly because we arrivedthere on a Saturday evening. Enkhuizen, disap-pointing at the first glance, exerts a more subtlefascination than Hoorn. However, I remember itas the place where we saw another j^acht come in,the owner steering, and foul the piles at the en-trance. My skipper looked at Ms owner, as if tosay, You see what owner
. From the log of the Velsa. aved andscrubbed every separate stone on the quay. If ca-nals were foul, streets were as clean as table-tops—cleaner. The other cities of the Zuyder Zee were not moredead than Hoorn, though Enkhuizen, our nextport, was more tranquil, possibly because we arrivedthere on a Saturday evening. Enkhuizen, disap-pointing at the first glance, exerts a more subtlefascination than Hoorn. However, I remember itas the place where we saw another j^acht come in,the owner steering, and foul the piles at the en-trance. My skipper looked at Ms owner, as if tosay, You see what owners do when they takecharge. I admitted it. We crossed from Enkhuizen to Stavoren in badweather, lost the dinghy and recovered it, andnearly lost the yacht, owing to the cook havingtaken to his bunk without notice when it was im-perative to shorten sail in a jiffy. The last that Iheard of this cook was that he had become an om-nibus conductor. Some people are born to rise,and the born omnibus conductor will reach that es- 60. IN THE CHURCH AT HOORN THE ZUYDER ZEE tate somehow. He was a pleasant, sad young man,and himself painted in water-colors. I dare say that at Stavoren we were too excitedto notice the town; but I know that it was a busyport. Lemmer also was busy, a severely practicaltown, with a superb harbor-master, and a doctorwho cured the cook. We were disappointed withKampen, a reputed beauty-spot, praised even by Lucas, who never praises save on extreme provo-cation. Kampen has architecture,—wonderfulgates,—but it also has the crudest pavements inHolland, and it does not smile hospitably, and theeast wind was driving through it, and the most agreeable corner of Kampen was the char-coal-heated saloon of the yacht. We left Kampen,which perhaps, after all, really was dead, on Sep-tember 21. The morning was warm and had been afloat in various countries for sevenweeks continuously, and this was my first warm,sunny morning. In three hours we were
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