Tafilet; the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara . , and collecting the few necessaries for myjourney at Tangier, reached Saffi, some 400 milesdown the Atlantic coast of Morocco, in the secondweek of October. The journey from Tangier to Saffi was one thatpresented but little of interest. The coast-steamerin which I travelled visited the various ports, —Laraiche, Eabat, Casablanca (Dar el baida), and Ma-zagan, all of which I knew well. The weather wasrough, and we had some difficulty in communicatingat more than one of the ports, l


Tafilet; the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara . , and collecting the few necessaries for myjourney at Tangier, reached Saffi, some 400 milesdown the Atlantic coast of Morocco, in the secondweek of October. The journey from Tangier to Saffi was one thatpresented but little of interest. The coast-steamerin which I travelled visited the various ports, —Laraiche, Eabat, Casablanca (Dar el baida), and Ma-zagan, all of which I knew well. The weather wasrough, and we had some difficulty in communicatingat more than one of the ports, lying for some twentyhours off Eabat before the lighters were able to issuefrom the mouth of the river—the Bu Eeo-reo^—thatseparates that town from Sallee, the home of the oldrovers, whose depredations upon English sailing-shipswere at one time so well known and so much dreaded. 8 PKEPAKATIONS AND START. However, on the fifth day after leaving, Safh wasreached, and fortunately the sea was calm enough toallow of our landing in one of the strangely built anddecorated surf-boats in use at that port. .^^??. Landing in Saffi. What a shouting and yelling there was of the boat-men, as my Riffi servant Mohammed, of whom moreanon, and 1, perched on the top of our little pile ofbaggage, were tossed to and fro by the curling seas SAFFI. 9 that one after another broke along the beach ! Insilence the steersman watched his opportunity, andwith a smooth gliding motion we were borne betweenrugged rocks, and our boat lay high and dry uponthe beach. Saffi has been too often described to need morethan the merest mention here. It is a strang;e, flat-roofed, wdiite town, reaching from the sea-beach highup the semicircle of hills by which it is enclosed, thesummit capped by the windowless walls and peakedtowers of the great castle, once a palace of the Sultans,now little more than a deserted ruin. Within the town the streets are narrow and rainy seasons the mud is almost knee-deep, and


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Keywords: ., bookcentury1800, bookdecade1890, bookpublisherlondo, bookyear1895