Food and flavor, a gastronomic guide to health and good living . re kept busy. To-day, enormous quantities of imitation Roquefort aremade in various countries. Some of it is quite tasty,but epicures will continue to ask for the original, andit is right that the law should protect them and themakers by compelling imitators to put RoquefortType on their labels. To a good many persons the piquancy of Roquefortdoes not appeal. Few, however, fail to succumb tothe wiles of Camembert. Its popularity is attested bythe fact that New York hotels alone use 30,000 ofthese cheeses a week during the season.
Food and flavor, a gastronomic guide to health and good living . re kept busy. To-day, enormous quantities of imitation Roquefort aremade in various countries. Some of it is quite tasty,but epicures will continue to ask for the original, andit is right that the law should protect them and themakers by compelling imitators to put RoquefortType on their labels. To a good many persons the piquancy of Roquefortdoes not appeal. Few, however, fail to succumb tothe wiles of Camembert. Its popularity is attested bythe fact that New York hotels alone use 30,000 ofthese cheeses a week during the season. There is ademand at present for about 4,000,000 Camembertsfrom the United States alone, and sometimes Caen andHavre are unable to supply the demand. Many at-tempts to manufacture Camembert have been madein America. The president of one of the largest purefood companies told me he had spent $30,000 in theattempt to produce a satisfactory Camembert; then hegave it up and began to import it. You can importcheeses but you cannot import or reproduce local VIII EPICUREAN ITALY THE CRADLE OF MODERN COOKERY. HE fact that Roquefort cheesewas relished by Roman epicurestwenty centuries ago indicatesthat French gastronomy is notentirely a product of moderntimes. Yet it was not till thereign of Louis XIV (who diedin 1643 that France began tolead the world in this branch of civilization. Thecradle of modern culinary art was Italy. Katharineof Medici brought its higher branches from that coun-try, which, in the sixteenth century, was supreme in allthe fine arts, the chefs included. Italian cookery differed in those days from that of other countries as French cookery, with its entremets, 309
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