. Travels and politics in the Near East. d. Through a narrow channel, guarded jealously by anold Venetian fort, in whose dungeons political prisonerswere wont to languish in days gone by, we entered thebay of Sebenico, next to Ragusa the most picturesque ofDalmatian coast towns. On the quay the host of theHotel Pellegrino met us and conducted us through quitethe most remarkable collection of passages that I haveever traversed, to our chamber. We began at the billiard-room, then crossed the scullery, passed by way of thepigsties and the pigeon-house, climbed a flight of outsidestairs, explored
. Travels and politics in the Near East. d. Through a narrow channel, guarded jealously by anold Venetian fort, in whose dungeons political prisonerswere wont to languish in days gone by, we entered thebay of Sebenico, next to Ragusa the most picturesque ofDalmatian coast towns. On the quay the host of theHotel Pellegrino met us and conducted us through quitethe most remarkable collection of passages that I haveever traversed, to our chamber. We began at the billiard-room, then crossed the scullery, passed by way of thepigsties and the pigeon-house, climbed a flight of outsidestairs, explored the lumber-room, walked across a landingcontaining a meat-safe and stacks of empty bottles, in-vestigated a huge ante-room full of old chests and cup-boards, plunged into a short passage, and finally emergedin a vast bedroom decorated with pictures of the Virginand the Saints, and commanding a splendid view of the i6 in the Near East bay. As our host put it in epigmmmatic Italian,approach was rrloomy, but the room very beautiful. the It. LASA KU.^SIM, .). will be seen from this that the hotel at Sebenico isnothing if not roomy, and that the traveller will not have ry c Travels and Politics time to perform the gigantic journey to his apartmentmore than once a day. The food was excellent, althougha commercial traveller had assured me on the steamerthat Sebenico possessed only two dishes—lamb with peasand peas with lamb. But even so it would have beenahead of many parts of the Near East, where lamb, andlamb alone, is the sole item in the bill of fare. The wineof the neighbourhood is noted, and we sampled withmuch satisfaction the red vintage known as Tartaro, andthe wine called locally maraschino, which is not to beconfounded with the liqueur of the same name, but islike milk-punch in colour and very strong. Wine costsnext to nothing in Dalmatia, and the beer is also fortified, we set out to see the great sight of thedistrict—the Kerka Falls, one of the fine
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Keywords: ., bookcentury1800, bookdecade1890, booksubjecteasternquestionbalka
