Across the Andes . f identification, but, with the eyesclosed, it did not differ materially from catniptea or any of the old home remedy never did an orange look more nobly lusci-ous, for the round, unripe, green skin of thenative product enfolds a heart of nectar. From Vitor on we wound through twistinggorges or steep valleys, barren of all save cactusand the desert shale and boulders. Steadily thetrain climbed. Always on one side or the otherwere the traces of the old Inca empire and itsindustrious dominion; here a fragmentary stretchof road and a ruined gateway, now and again


Across the Andes . f identification, but, with the eyesclosed, it did not differ materially from catniptea or any of the old home remedy never did an orange look more nobly lusci-ous, for the round, unripe, green skin of thenative product enfolds a heart of nectar. From Vitor on we wound through twistinggorges or steep valleys, barren of all save cactusand the desert shale and boulders. Steadily thetrain climbed. Always on one side or the otherwere the traces of the old Inca empire and itsindustrious dominion; here a fragmentary stretchof road and a ruined gateway, now and again thealmost obliterated ruins of some old town or vil-lage, but always, running along the sides of thesteep hills or through the valleys, the dusty re-mains of a tremendous system of irrigationditches. Where once has been a busy land, softwith the green of growing things, there are thecactus and the badger and the occasional baked-mud hut of an Indian wringing a dull livingfrom the desert, Heaven knows how, where his. In Arequipa the City of Churches THE CITY OF CHURCHES 8ii ancestors once farmed and throve in multitudes. The contrast stirs the dullest fancy. And onthe side of the spoilers for their gains? Onlythe dessicated remains of a treacherous old piratethat may be viewed—for a very moderate tip—through the side of a marble aquarium back inLima as a cathedral curio and, in Europe, anasthmatic and toothless Spain drained to decrepi-tude by her own remorseless greed and predace-ous piety. In the long rays of the sunset the train rolledacross the level stretches of the high valley inwhich lies the city of Arequipa. The low, flathouses—more or less earthquake proof—and thered tile roofs were radiant in the mellow rose the dull, volcanic slopes of Misti inan immense cone, while best of all, in the onestory hotel of rambling patios in that city ofearthquakes we were once more able to collectsufficient water at one time to accomplish a Arequipa the firs


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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookdecade1910, bookpublishernewyo, bookyear1912