Italian hours . ife and new, themountebanks booth (it was hardly more) grafted on the an-tique circus, the dominant presence of a mighty architecture, theloungers and idlers beneath the kindly sky and upon the sun-warmed stones. I never felt more keenly the difference betweenthe background to life in very old and very new are other things in Verona to make it a liberal educationto be born there, though that it is one for the contemporaryVeronese I dont pretend to say. The Tombs of the Scaligers,with their soaring pinnacles, their high-poised canopies, theirexquisite refinem
Italian hours . ife and new, themountebanks booth (it was hardly more) grafted on the an-tique circus, the dominant presence of a mighty architecture, theloungers and idlers beneath the kindly sky and upon the sun-warmed stones. I never felt more keenly the difference betweenthe background to life in very old and very new are other things in Verona to make it a liberal educationto be born there, though that it is one for the contemporaryVeronese I dont pretend to say. The Tombs of the Scaligers,with their soaring pinnacles, their high-poised canopies, theirexquisite refinement and concentration of the Gothic idea, Icant profess, even after much worshipful gazing, to have fullycomprehended and enjoyed. They seemed to me full of deeparchitectural meanings, such as must drop gently into the mindone by one, after infinite tranquil contemplation. But even tothe hurried and preoccupied traveller the solemn little chapel-yard in the citys heart, in which they stand girdled by their [84 ]. THE AMPHITHliATRE, VERONA. VENICE: AN EARLY IMPRESSION great swaying curtain of linked and twisted iron, is one of themost impressive spots in Italy. Nowhere else is such a wealthof artistic achievement crowded into so narrow a space; nowhereelse are the daily comings and goings of men blessed by thepresence of manlier art. Verona is rich furthermore in beautifulchurches — several with beautiful names: San Fermo, SantaAnastasia, San Zenone. This last is a structure of high antiquityand of the most impressive loveliness. The nave terminates ina double choir, that is a sub-choir or crypt into which you de-scend and where you wander among primitive columns whosevariously grotesque capitals rise hardly higher than your head,and an upper choral plane reached by broad stairways of thebravest effect. I shall never forget the impression of majesticchastity that I received from the great nave of the building onmy former visit. I then decided to my satisfaction that everychurc
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