India impressions, with some notes of Ceylon during a winter tour, 1906-7 [microform] . them about that time. An English lady, Mrs Dowden (wife of ColonelDowden), was kind enough to conduct us throughLucknow and its wonders, and she proved anexcellent cicerone, and waved off all unnecessaryattentions from caretakers and their hangers-onwith the decisive air of a resident. We passed a hideous clock tower—one of manyin India—put up by some modern architect (as aJubilee memorial, I think). It is astonishing whatmonstrosities in clock towers have been perpetratedby modern architects in India. Fina


India impressions, with some notes of Ceylon during a winter tour, 1906-7 [microform] . them about that time. An English lady, Mrs Dowden (wife of ColonelDowden), was kind enough to conduct us throughLucknow and its wonders, and she proved anexcellent cicerone, and waved off all unnecessaryattentions from caretakers and their hangers-onwith the decisive air of a resident. We passed a hideous clock tower—one of manyin India—put up by some modern architect (as aJubilee memorial, I think). It is astonishing whatmonstrosities in clock towers have been perpetratedby modern architects in India. Finally, we got to the gate of the old city ofLucknow, by which we entered the principal streetof the bazaar. There were many interesting nativeshops. At one I noticed some blocks of patternsfor printing by hand on cotton. They were cut insome hard wood. The handicraft, too, was stillcarried on here. There were many pretty beadnecklaces, tassels, and quaint toys. We visited, LUCKNOW i95 up a steep narrow staircase, a muslin and jewel mer-chants store. He showed some charming Indian. BETTER LUCK AT LUCKNOW—-THROUGH THE CHOWKON AN ELEPHANT muslins spangled with silver spots and also had one or two pieces of old Lucknowenamel not ordinarily seen in the bazaars now. i96 INDIA IMPRESSIONS We visited another friend who had been spend-ing the winter at Lucknow—Mrs Jopling-Rowe,the well-known artist, whose son is a Magistratehere, dining with them at their charming bungalowone evening. Mr Commissioner Jopling verycourteously placed elephants at our disposal onwhich to ride through the chowk. An irrigation well near the hotel interested me,and I made a sketch of it in a chequered yoke of oxen and two natives at work haulingup the water for the garden in a leather thus engaged another friend travelling inthe East came up, so that as regards friends wewere quite in lucks way at Lucknow. After this it was time to go and meet theelephants our friends h


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