Persia past and present; a book of travel and research, with more than two hundred illustrations and a map . Thf. Mahmax-Khanah at Kazyix. The River FROM EAZVIN TO ENZALI 445 winding. The entire region interested me because it lay onthe borders of Mazandaran, the abode of the Mazainya Baevas,Demons of Mazandaran, in the Avesta, and I confess thatsome of the natives of the rude villages looked like the veritabledlvs, devils, of Firdausis Shah Namah. Early on the second morning we crossed the Safid Rud, liter-ally White River, which I believe to be identical with theDaitya River of Zoroas


Persia past and present; a book of travel and research, with more than two hundred illustrations and a map . Thf. Mahmax-Khanah at Kazyix. The River FROM EAZVIN TO ENZALI 445 winding. The entire region interested me because it lay onthe borders of Mazandaran, the abode of the Mazainya Baevas,Demons of Mazandaran, in the Avesta, and I confess thatsome of the natives of the rude villages looked like the veritabledlvs, devils, of Firdausis Shah Namah. Early on the second morning we crossed the Safid Rud, liter-ally White River, which I believe to be identical with theDaitya River of Zoroaster, and I wondered whether its watersshimmering in the light of sunrise preserved any memory ofthe prophets glorification or of the sacrifice offered on its bankby his patron Vishtaspa.^ At nine oclock we were in Resht, aflourishing but unattractive town of possibly 100,000 inhabi-tants.* I did not stay here more than two hours beforeengaging another conveyance to carry Safar and myself toPiri Bazaar, the landing-place where one hires a rowboat asa transport to Enzali, the main port. Piri Bazaar is a filthy hole, a place where it i


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