. The 20th century toolsmith and steelworker; a complete, practical, and scientific book. lace them ona hot place with the cutting edge upwards and allowto remain until the necessary color appears on the cut-ting edge. Then cool off. For a punch allow the tem-per to draw to a light blue. For a die a dark strawwill be good. When heating small punches, and diesfor hardening as Figure 53, heat the whole tool andquench from a vertical position. Flue Expanders. _ When hardening long flue expanders pins, as Figure54, follow the instructions as given in hardening hobtaps, stay bolt taps, etc., but ha
. The 20th century toolsmith and steelworker; a complete, practical, and scientific book. lace them ona hot place with the cutting edge upwards and allowto remain until the necessary color appears on the cut-ting edge. Then cool off. For a punch allow the tem-per to draw to a light blue. For a die a dark strawwill be good. When heating small punches, and diesfor hardening as Figure 53, heat the whole tool andquench from a vertical position. Flue Expanders. _ When hardening long flue expanders pins, as Figure54, follow the instructions as given in hardening hobtaps, stay bolt taps, etc., but harden the whole lengthof the tool from a to b, while the temper must bedrawn to a dark blue if the right kind of steel is used,which should be about 75 points carbon, likewise all TOOLSMITH AND STEELWORKER 113 small parts of flue expanders should be tempered to adark blue. All small parts of flue expanders may be heated toharden, by placing them on a hot plate of iron. Theplate of iron being placed directly on the surface ofthe fire and heated to a light yellow, a slight hollow in / \,.
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