Byways in southern Tuscany . ts present desecration,for mother and child wear elaborate silver crowns andbead necklaces ruthlessly fastened to the face of thepicture. It was late when I left Saturnia, gray twilight was set-tling over the ancient site and over the broad valley sownwith the tombs of a forgotten people. Passing slowlyalong a low parapet I saw an old man still digging un-steadily among the clods in the bit of ground he was cul-tivating. Presently this remark floated over the wall; Isay floated because it was neither loud nor insistent butwas simply exhaled as the ruminations of th
Byways in southern Tuscany . ts present desecration,for mother and child wear elaborate silver crowns andbead necklaces ruthlessly fastened to the face of thepicture. It was late when I left Saturnia, gray twilight was set-tling over the ancient site and over the broad valley sownwith the tombs of a forgotten people. Passing slowlyalong a low parapet I saw an old man still digging un-steadily among the clods in the bit of ground he was cul-tivating. Presently this remark floated over the wall; Isay floated because it was neither loud nor insistent butwas simply exhaled as the ruminations of the momentfound expression: I should like to smoke half a cigarthis evening! I stopped short and addressed the Sienese,my companion. This time you must let me give something. That wasnot begging, it was just a remark overheard. Now howmuch may I give? He smiled ironically as one understanding may give him just two cents. That will get himhalf a cigar. The Sienese is jealous lest the independence of the Tuscan 240. c w BYWAYS IN SOUTHERN TUSCANY peasant be undermined. I called to the old man and hecame to the wall, with just a touch of quizzical self-con-sciousness. The two cents was deposited in his handand the beaming smile with which it was received oughtto have melted the disciplinary heart of the Sienese. The only road to Sovana, the ancient Suana, leads northfrom Pitigliano over lonely hills and stony table-landsfor some four miles. The condition of it tells one longbefore arriving what degree of poverty and abandonmentmust exist there. One takes a motor at the risk of ruin,a carriage driven at a walk progresses painfully, so that thewiser choice is to make the journey on foot or by means ofa horse. From the summit of the last hill you look downupon the town and while gradually descending and ob-serving its position, marvel that Sovana so small and sopoorly placed for resistance should have been able to de-fend itself with such obstinacy. Two brooks in their ho
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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookdecade1910, booksubjecttuscany, bookyear1919
