. Two centuries of costume in America, MDCXX-MDCCCXX . els, a woollen stuff, in thesame shape. Duffels was called match-cloth. Theword coat here is not really an English word; itis matchigode, the Chippewa Indian name for thisgarment. The Evolution of Coats and Waistcoats 179 We have in old-time letters and accounts occa-sional proof that the coat of the Puritan fatherswas not at all like the shapely coat of our have also many words to prove that the coat wasadoubletwhich, as old Stubbessaid, could bepleated, orcrested behindand curiouslygathered. The tailor ofthe Winthropfamily was one
. Two centuries of costume in America, MDCXX-MDCCCXX . els, a woollen stuff, in thesame shape. Duffels was called match-cloth. Theword coat here is not really an English word; itis matchigode, the Chippewa Indian name for thisgarment. The Evolution of Coats and Waistcoats 179 We have in old-time letters and accounts occa-sional proof that the coat of the Puritan fatherswas not at all like the shapely coat of our have also many words to prove that the coat wasadoubletwhich, as old Stubbessaid, could bepleated, orcrested behindand curiouslygathered. The tailor ofthe Winthropfamily was oneJohn Smith; hemade garmentsfor them all,father, mother,children, andchildrens wives,and husbandssisters, nieces,cousins, andaunts. He wasa good Puritan,and seems tohave been much esteemed by Winthrop. One letteraccompanying a coat runs : Good Mr. Winthrop,I have, by Mr. Downings direction sent you acoat, a sad foulding colour without lace. For thefittness I am a little vncerteyne, but if it be toobigg or too little it is esie to amend, vnder the arme. Of /urn, nwft s4a^e ttiu■^Picture- fiam ^t/yntP,(Vestw, and* Harnvy, regr*fmt f&(TTlM W s i8o Two Centuries of Costume to take in or let out the lyning; the outside maybe let out in the gathering or taken in also with-out any prejudice. This instruction would appearto prove not only that the coat was a doublet, curi-ously gathered, but that the flttness was morethan uncerteyne of the coats of the even such wildly broad directions could not prejudice the coat, we may assume that GovernorWinthrop was more easily suited as to the cut ofhis apparel, than would have been Sir WalterRaleigh or Sir Philip Sidney. Though Puritan influence on dress simplifiedmuch of the flippery and finery of the days ofElizabeth and James, and the refining elegance ofVan Dyck gave additional simplicity as well asbeauty to womens attire, which it retained for manyyears, still there lingered throughout the seven-teenth century, ready to sprin
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Keywords: ., boo, bookcentury1900, bookdecade1900, booksubjectclothinganddress