. Highways and byways in Devon and Cornwall. can slideno further, but are brought to a standstill in the very bottom ofthe hollow. The confusion of the town is immense. It is alabyrinth of winding alleys, often ending in a cul-de-sac. Butthe downward sweep of the headlands is superb ; and under thetowering cliffs studded with bosses of golden furze lies a littlepier and harbour with the sea foam flying sharply round thejutting peaks of rock before a stiff south-wester, while the gullswheel shrieking overhead, and out at sea a schooner islabouring heavily. In the time of a storm, says Mr. Jonat
. Highways and byways in Devon and Cornwall. can slideno further, but are brought to a standstill in the very bottom ofthe hollow. The confusion of the town is immense. It is alabyrinth of winding alleys, often ending in a cul-de-sac. Butthe downward sweep of the headlands is superb ; and under thetowering cliffs studded with bosses of golden furze lies a littlepier and harbour with the sea foam flying sharply round thejutting peaks of rock before a stiff south-wester, while the gullswheel shrieking overhead, and out at sea a schooner islabouring heavily. In the time of a storm, says Mr. Jonathan Couch, a nativeof Polperro, and author of the very pleasantest local historywhich it has been my good fortune to light upon, in the time ofa storm Polperro is a striking scene of bustle and noise of the wind as it roars up the coomb, the hoarserumbling of the angry sea, the shouts of the fishermen engagedin securing their boats, and the screams of the women andchildren carrying the tidings of the latest disaster, are a !. 226 CORNISH FISHER FOLK chap. peculiarly melancholy assemblage of sounds, especially whenheard at midnight. All who can render assistance are out oftheir beds, helping the sailors and fishermen; lifting the boatsout of reach of the sea, or taking the furniture of the groundfloors to a place of safety. . When the first streak of morninglight comes, bringing no cessation of the storm, but onlyserving to show the devastation it has made, the effect is stillmore dismal. The wild fury of the waves is a sight of no meangrandeur as it dashes over the peak and falls on its jaggedsummit, from whence it streams down the sides in a thousandwaterfalls and foams at its base. The infuriated sea sweepsover the piers and striking against the rocks and houses on thewarren side rebounds towards the strand, and washes fragmentsof houses and boats into the streets, where the receding tideleaves them strewn in sad confusion. Such is the graphic record of a night
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