Dalmatia, the Quarnero and Istria, with Cettigne in Montenegro and the island of Grado . ofthose land-locked shallows. This however is by nomeans the case. The head of the Adriatic aboundsin lagunes just like those that contain Venice, alter-nately sea and mud as the gentle tides rise andfall, in which the oozy islands are masted with loftycampaniles recalling Torcello Murano and S. boats that float on them are the same that maybe seen in the Grand Canal, the graceful gondola is Ch. XXXVI.] Lag lines of Grado. 409. but a sublimated version of the rude bark in whichwe travelled, and
Dalmatia, the Quarnero and Istria, with Cettigne in Montenegro and the island of Grado . ofthose land-locked shallows. This however is by nomeans the case. The head of the Adriatic aboundsin lagunes just like those that contain Venice, alter-nately sea and mud as the gentle tides rise andfall, in which the oozy islands are masted with loftycampaniles recalling Torcello Murano and S. boats that float on them are the same that maybe seen in the Grand Canal, the graceful gondola is Ch. XXXVI.] Lag lines of Grado. 409. but a sublimated version of the rude bark in whichwe travelled, and Venice herself in her amphibiouseconomy is but a splendid development of visit to the latter place will do much to enableone to realize Cassiodoruss picturesque descriptionof the settlement of the fugitives from Aquileiaand Padua on the mud-banks of the Kivus Grado now is Venice once was, and therewas a time, difficult as it now is to realise it,when Grado, Veneiae orae Istriaeque ecdesiar^umcaput et mater, was the superior and Venice theinferior place of the Fig. 124. At last a larger cluster of houses than the restgrouped round a spire-capped campanile appearedon the southern horizon, and was as we rightly con-jectured the patriarchal city to which we werebound. As the tide was high we were able to leavethe canals, whose course was marked out by greatposts painted black and white, and to make astraight run for Grado across the open lagune,thereby considerably shortening the distance. On 41 o Grado. [Ch. xxxYi. reaching the island we entered a straight canal () between embankments which led to the port,a tolerably capacious basin full of gaily-paintedboats from Chioggia. Beyond it lies the city, a clusterof shabby houses divided by a network of intricateand narrow alleys, in which, small as the place is,one may easily contrive to lose ones way. Thehouses, though innocent of paint and somewhatdilapidated, are not badly built, and as at leastever
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