. From the log of the Velsa. come out of it your way thence to the Rembrandt-Plein,where pleasure concentrates, and you will have toconclude that the whole of Amsterdam is there, andaU its habitations empty. The mirrored, scintil-lating cafes, huge and lofty and golden, arecrowded with tables and drinkers and waiters, anddominated by rhapsodic orchestras of women inwhite who do what they can against the hum of tenthousand conversations, the hoarse calls of waiters,and the clatter of crockery. It is a pandemoniumwith a certain stolidity. The excellent music-hallsand circuses are
. From the log of the Velsa. come out of it your way thence to the Rembrandt-Plein,where pleasure concentrates, and you will have toconclude that the whole of Amsterdam is there, andaU its habitations empty. The mirrored, scintil-lating cafes, huge and lofty and golden, arecrowded with tables and drinkers and waiters, anddominated by rhapsodic orchestras of women inwhite who do what they can against the hum of tenthousand conversations, the hoarse calls of waiters,and the clatter of crockery. It is a pandemoniumwith a certain stolidity. The excellent music-hallsand circuses are equally crowded, and curiously, soare the suburban resorts on the rim of the the larger places, perhaps, the CafeAmericain, on the Leidsche-Plein, was the least fe-verish, and this was not to be counted in its favor,because the visitor to a city which pullulates is, andshould be, happiest in pullulating. The crowd, thedin, the elbowing, the glitter for me, in a town likeAmsterdam I In a town hke Gouda, which none. AT KRASNAPOLSKYS, AMSTERDAM SOME TOWNS should fail to visit for the incomparable stained-glass in its church, I am content to be as placid andsolitary as anybody, and I will follow a dancingbear and a Gipsy girl up and down the streetsthereof with as much simplicity as anybody. ButAmsterdam is the great, vulgar, inspiring world. 87 CHAPTER VI MUSEUMS I DID not go yachting in Holland in order tovisit museums; nevertheless, I saw a it is possible to step off a yacht clean into amuseimi, and heavy rain is falhng, the temptationto remain on board is not sufficiently powerful tokeep you out of the museum. At Dordrecht thereis a municipal museum manned by four received us with hope, with enthusiasm, withthe most touching gratitude. Their interest in uswas pathetic. They were all dying of ennui in thoselarge rooms, where the infection hung in clouds al-most visible, and we were a specific seized on us as the morphinomaniac s
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